New York: The late 1970s and 80s were a time of turmoil for Northern England, and it was under that ominous grey cloud that creativity flourished  (not much different from today’s economic climate). Bespoken’s Fayed and Goncalves brothers referenced the time period when English tradition clashed with modern revolution for their S/S 12 collection. Out of such grimness came the Madchester music scene, a movement defined by alternative rock, New Wave and dance. The designers’ translation of such a hectic time came in the form of cropped suits, tailored shorts, Harrington jackets and color-blocked shirtings. While it may have not been the most fashion-forward collection of the week, Bespoken gives men what they need most — relevant silhouettes for the times and functional fabrics that can be as tailored as they are technical.  —Michael Fisher

Silhouette: Slim and cropped

Color: Slate grey / Navy blue / Washed red / Stone

Key Items: Shorts suits / Fine gauge cardigans / Harrington-style jackets / One-button suits / Double-breasted suits / Tonal striped polos / Color-blocked shirts / Trench coats

Materials: Waterproof Italian wool / Cotton poplin / Jersey / Wax-coated cotton/ Silk suiting

Details + Trim: High button stance for suiting / One-button closure / Exposed labels on shirtings / Pieced construction / Scoop neck sweater

Accessories + Footwear: Leather arm bands and belts / Pocket squares / Suede monk strap shoes / Brogue boots

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