Jan 10, 2017 | By Lourdes Linares
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Last week Stylesight’s denim team flew over to Berlin to cover the major trade shows across the city and bring you the best denim news from F/W 14.
There was a noticeable change of mood in the air in Berlin this January. While the juggernaut that is Bread & Butter remains the biggest show in the city (showcasing over 500 brands), the main halls felt somewhat silent without some of the key players that have pulled out over the past 2 years. G-Star was the latest major brand to pull out this season (following Diesel, Levi’s, Wrangler & Lee), opting instead to increase its presence at Pitti the previous week. Additionally a number of other key designers moved to Premium, BBB’s neighbouring trade show that targets the higher end side of the apparel market. Despite these crucial shifts, Karl-Heinz Müller still managed to draw in a great selection of purist and core denim brands in the L.O.C.K. and Fire Dept areas. Rising Sun, Denham, Edwin and Levi’s Vintage Clothing were amongst the most inspirational presentations. A whole host of Japanese brands were also welcomed back once again for fall, situated within the concept area in the L.O.C.K. hall, as was Thomas Bojer of Denim Hunters who presented his newly launched website in the editorial area.
Meanwhile, over at Premium and SEEK on Luckenwalder Strasse, the halls were bustling with both shows noting record breaking visitor numbers after the first days of the shows, proving their relevance on the fashion calendar. While Premium focuses primarily on high end women’s denim market, featuring brands such as Hudson, Paige, Joe’s Jeans and 7 For All Mankind, neighbouring SEEK showcases finely curated selection of contemporary menswear labels such as Our Legacy, Universal Works and Indigo Fera Jeans.
With all fairs showcasing such a huge and diverse portfolio of brands across the denim market, there was of course an inspirational amount of stories and new developments that emerged for the season. Here we break down the strongest themes from across the board:
As the jacquard trend continues to grow, designers began to explore bolder and more creative techniques for fall 14. While the women’s market has heavily foraged the trend, a large selection of menswear brands tapped the technique as an alternative to classic prints. Designs across both genders looked to more abstract and intricate jacquard designs with 3D surfaces and tapestry-like effects. Key designers included Levi’s Made & Crafted, AG Jeans and Hudson.
Usually reserved for the purist Japanese market, a whole host of commercial western brands took on an Eastern sensibility this season. Taking inspiration from traditional Japanese craft works and giving it a modern spin, brands like Edwin, Scarti-Lab and Gsus Industries explored to natural indigo dyes, sashiko and boro textures as well as introducing remixed versions of traditional stifel-inspired repeats and bandana patterns.
With the freezing temperatures setting in during the show, the selection of cozy woollen and neppy textures seemed to hit just the right note. The flannel denim shirt was a key item for men across both BBB and SEEK, while jeans, hoodies and jackets were all treated to fuzzy weaves in wintery hues.
The full write-ups will be hitting the denim page this week, so subscribers keep your eyes peeled.
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