Jan 19, 2017 | By Jian DeLeon
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New York: Belstaff started off by showing the label’s signature waxed cotton pieces, like the belted Trailmaster jacket, some styled with waxed cotton trousers for a utility feel. Head of design Martin Cooper mixed in menswear too. “I wanted to have a mixed men’s/women’s wear show, as we really design clothes for the same kind of client, girl or guy. I always think what looks good on a guy will always work for a girl,” Cooper told us, backstage. Many new techniques were used, such as bonding, techno micro-twill, beaver nylon and oiled suede. Leather pieces were the high points of the collection, in warm, elegantly rich colors like oxblood, tobacco, walnut and black, and leathers were used throughout as detailing on jackets and coats. “It’s all about effortless luxury. It’s the girl on the back of a motorcycle, the element of fragility and danger.” explained Cooper. Standout pieces were a color-blocked sable/travertine/shearling coat, the vintage python espresso jacket and mini skirt, the cognac leather trench coat, and all the flouncy skirts that added soft femininity to the sharp military-biker-inspired collection. A few sparks came from black metallic studs on leather shell tops and skirts, and while the silhouette loosely referenced the 60s and 70s, the collection was really about wearable modern pieces for an urban couple on the go.—Celia Ingesson
Silhouette: Minimalist / Lean / Biker / Tailored
Color: Shire green / Walnut / Windsor green / Oxblood / Charcoal / Quartz / Black / Ivory
Key Items: The shearling coat / Waxed utility jackets and coats / Shift dresses / Bonded leather jackets / Stovepipe trousers / Flouncy skirts / Merino “boyfriend” sweaters
Materials: Leather: bonded, or plain / Silk / Melton / Felt / Shearling / Fur / Merino wool knit / Waxed cotton / Technical nylons
Print + Pattern: Color and fabric blocking / Subtle tweed checks
Details + Trim: Leather and fur contrasts / Contrasting fabrics and trimmings / Subtle color blocking / Heavy metallic zips and buttons
Accessories + Footwear: High boots with military inspiration / Sharp pumps with ankle straps
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