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Sep 22, 2016
By Theresa Yee
While the catwalks team are running around in the front of house at the catwalk shows, the WGSN beauty team, myself and associate beauty editor Emma Grace Bailey, have been busy behind the scenes. We’re the editors you see squeezed in between the trays of foundation, the array of hairbrushes, and trying to Instagram close up pictures of the model’s faces backstage. Why? To bring you the latest beauty trends of course. We spent over 5 days backstage at London Fashion Week talking to the hairstylists, make-up artists and manicurists that create the looks for the shows.
Here’s what you need to know to be ahead of the beauty game for next spring/summer.
The Inspiration: New wave glamour with a tough edge
The Look: Power, pretty and sexy all rolled into one – think airbrushed skin, contoured cheeks (with colour applied under the cheekbones), Brooke Shields brows, russet brown red eye and a pinky brown lip. Hair focuses on a dropped out or day old perm which is swept over to the left at the front for a hint of sexiness cool. Hair is overloaded with lots of products and curled with a thin, chopstick-like curling tong to form spiral ‘instant noodle’ curls, which are broken up using the hands to achieve a more lived-in curl
Lead Stylists: Hannah Murray using Topshop Beauty /Anatole Rainey using Topshop Beauty / Duffy using L’Oreal Professionnel
Key Products: Topshop Beauty Airbrush Primer, Air Cushion Skin Perfector, Cream Blush in Dalliance, Glow Stick in Play Up, Brow Gel, Brow Pencil in Spike, Lipstick in Temptation, Contour Wand in Angels, Kajal, Lipstick in Mink, L’Oreal Professionnel Techni.Art Pli, Techni.Art Full Volume Extra Mousse and Infinium
The Inspiration: Bollywood in the 1960s and a scene from classic film Amrapali which sees a courtesan being wooed by her lover in the moonlight (make-up). Traditional Indian weddings and the rebellion of a runaway bride (hair)
The Look: Hair is broken and distressed, tied in a messy bun on the top of the head with dry shampoo used to create a dusty texture. Long, luscious braids are attached and decorated with garlands and gold jewellery. Make-up sees two dramatic eye looks using heavy winged eyeliner and angular brows, with four models in full yellow or blue face paint designs with glitter eyes and lips. Nails are dipped in terracotta red paint to the knuckle, with glitter gold painted around the edge
Lead Stylists: Ali P for Toni & Guy / Isamaya Ffrench for Maybelline / Michelle Humphrey for Nails Inc
Key Products: Toni & Guy Volume Plumping Mousse, 3D Volumiser, Extreme Hold Hairspray, Casual Matt Texture Dry Shampoo, Maybelline Master Precise Curvy Eye Liner and Colossal Spider Effect Mascara
The Inspiration: A haunted girl who is washed up on shore after being shipwrecked
The Look: Hair is raw and organic, with two plaited pigtails twisted into an elegant, non-uniform shade at the base of the head, rough and full of flyaways with a salty, beachy texture. A simple black ribbon acts as a headband tied in a dainty bow at the side of the head. Make-up is soft and ruddy, with the same shade of lipstick used on the lips, eyes and cheeks for a look of controlled dishevelment. Nails shimmer in an iridescent pink sheen with super wet, oily finish
Lead Stylists: Anthony Turner for L’Oreal Professionnel and GHD / Val Garland for NARS / Michelle Humphrey for Nails Inc
Key Products: NARS Lipstick in Kiss Me Stupid, Lip Gloss in Triple, Pure Radiant Moisturiser, Luminous Moisture Cream, Larger Than Life Eyeliner in Bonaparte, L’Oreal Professionnel Beach Waves, Techni.ART Pli, GHD Curling Iron, Nails Inc Chelsea Embankment Mews Nailkale Nail Bright
The Inspiration: The ‘Godmother of Punk’ Nina Hagen mixed with Matty Bovan’s own eccentric, rainbow-hued style
The Look: Two bold make-up looks see a shimmering blue eye with a graphic brow and red lips, alongside a striking red and black eye look with thick liner in an exaggerative fiery design. Hair takes a strong influence from the 80s, with bold blunt fringed wigs sat on top of the head creating a mullet style. A messy loop bun sits low on the back of the head. Random waves and a dry texture add intrigue
Lead Stylists: Miranda Joyce for Marc Jacobs Beauty / Syd Hayes for Babyliss Pro
Key Products: Babyliss Pro Barber Hairdryer, Curling Tong, Marc Jacobs Beauty Under(cover) Coconut Face Primer, Style Eye Con 3- The Show Gazer, Velvet Noir Major Volume Mascara, Fineliner Ultra-Skinny Gel Eye Crayon in Blacquer, Le Marc Lip Crème in Goddess, Magic Marc’er Waterproof Liquid Eyeliner in Blacquer, Highliner Gel Eye Crayon in Midnight In Paris, Le Marc Lip Crème in Editrix
The Inspiration: An innocent nomad traveller with a naughty side
The Look: Innocent but with a sense of mystery was the hair direction this season. Virgin hair is paired with a veil of baby hair that floats over the face for a bad girl attitude. A small section of hair is tied back behind the ears to keep the sides neat and tucked behind. Make-up sees a soft lip stain paired with fresh, sun-kissed skin. Oil is applied to the cheeks for a hint of dewiness. Nails are light, airy and pretty thanks to two coats of MAC Transformations Pink Pearl topcoat
Lead Stylists: Anthony Turner using L’Oreal Professionnel / Marian Newman using MAC Cosmetics / Val Garland using MAC Cosmetics
Key Products: L’Oreal Professionnel Tecni.ART Pli, Mythic Oil and MAC Cosmetics Mixing Medium Shine
The Inspiration: Radiant royalty with a city break sun-kissed glow (make-up) and less is more hair
The Look: The make-up look focused on healthy, athletic and sun-kissed skin teamed with balmy lips, curled but no mascara lashes and a hint of eyeliner on the inner corners of the eyes. On nails, models display ‘sport length’ nails with a half and half fingertip featuring a nude colour on top and left clear on the bottom. Toes are painted in blue. Freshly washed hair is tied back into simple, middle-parted sleek ponytails
Lead Stylists: Andrew Gallimore using Nars / Sophy Robson using Christian Louboutin / Syd Hayes using L’Oreal Paris
Key Products: Nars Pure Tinted Moisturizer, Soft Matte Complete Concealer (new for spring 2017), Light Reflecting Loose Setting Powder, Laguna Liquid Bronzer, Radiance Primer (new for 2017), Breaking Free Lipstick (new for 2017), Las Pozas Velvet Eyeliner Pencil, Bianca Pure Sheer SPF Lip Treatment, Christian Louboutin Just Nothing and Whatever nail colours, L’Oreal Paris Fibrology Air Dry Shampoo, Fibrology Shampoo and Conditioner
The Inspiration: Dreamgirls and Alfred Hitchcock’s ‘The Birds’
The Look: Nine hair and nine make-up looks take on a 60s vibe with hair ranging from super-sized beehives to giant afros. Make-up sees eyes become the focus with graphic black lines and strong lashes paired with bursts of bright colours in pink and aqua
Lead Stylists: Val Garland for Maybelline / Maria Kovacs for Tigi
Key Products: Maybelline Fit Me Matte & Poreless Foundation, Fit Me Concealer, Baby Lips Balm in Hydrate, Colossal Spider Effect Mascara, Master Drama Khol Liner in Ultra Black, Master Drama Chromatics and Colour Sensational Lipsticks. Tigi Strong Hold Mousse, Bodifying Spray and Work It Hairspray
The Inspiration: 90s futuristic theme with a punky attitude
The Look: Nails are painted with a base in bright pink or dusky rose and finished with royal blue on the cuticles. Some models displayed a ‘chandelier nail’ with crystals hanging off the tip. The lip is the focus for make-up, with a biro blue lacquered lip enhanced with an iridescent fabric from the collection applied to the top of the mouth for a ‘cupid’s bow bling’. Skin is perfected (not matte or dewy), while groomed brows and curled lashes complete the make-up look. Hair is a mish-mash of textures; multiple braids are accessorised with customised beads on the ends as well as broken curls and silver paint on the finger waves at the front of the head for a fun and full-on look.
Lead Stylists: Andrew Gallimore using Maybelline, Sabrina Gayle using Orly, Sdy Hayes using Babyliss Pro
Key Products: Orly Pure Pure Porcelain, EPIX Flexible Color Out-Take, EPIX Flexible Color Melodrama and EPIX Sealcoat. Maybelline Dream Satin Liquid Foundation, Fit Me! Pressed Powder, Baby Lips in Hydrate, Brow Drama Transparent Sculpting Brow Mascara, Kohl Eyeliner in Beauty Blue 220, Color Drama Lip Intense Paint in Vamped Up 370, Babyliss Pro Ceramic Dial-A-Heat Tongs 13mm
The Inspiration: A punk rock girl that has been out on the town for three days straight
The Look: Hair is made to look melted, slick with high shine paste that’s rubbed into the roots, creating a haphazard, almost squashed look. Flyaways are stuck to the forehead and broken pieces stick out all over. Make-up sees a neon green smudge around brilliant navy blue glitter lips and bleached brows, which are tinted in lilac or peach. Nails look as though the girls have been drawing on their nails in class, with black, yellow and orange block colour work
Lead Stylists: Tina Outen for Bumble and bumble / Lucy Bridge for MAC Cosmetics / Sophy Robson for Christian Louboutin Nails
Key Products: Christian Louboutin Nail Colour in Escatin, Mula Lisa and Kohl, Bumble and bumble Dry Oil Finishing Spray, Don’t Blow It, Invisible Oil, Bb. Gel, MAC Cosmetics Strobe Cream, Paint Sticks in Rich Purple, Pure White and Genuine Orange, Clear Gloss, Chromacake in Marine Ultra and True Chartreuse
Emilio de la Morena
The Inspiration: The Spanish festival, Las Fallas, and the celebration of colour and energy
The Look: Tom-Babes! Fresh skin, peaches and cream complexion paired with brick and burnt orange eye. Brows are filled in and brushed up and lips coated in a brackish-peach tone. Hair is tied into a loose low bun with pieces pulled out at the front and sides for an ethereal yet effortless finish. Nails feature two-tones with one side in a high shine pink and the opposite left matte and bare.
Lead Stylists: Ami Streets using Orly / Kei Terada using Phyto / Sharon Dowsett using Maybelline
Key Products: Orly Lift The Veil, Polishield, Matte Top Coat, Phyto Volume Intense Mousse, Workable Holding Spray and Lisse. Maybelline Fit Me Foundation, Master Contour, Colour Sensational Lipstick in 418, Master Pro Brow Palette, Baby Lips Clear, Colour Drama Pencil in 410 and 630, Colour Sensational Lipstick in Tantalizing Taupe
The Inspiration: The relaxed, carefree Brazilian woman and the designer’s organic and raw collection
The Look: Raw and wild curls are paired with a neutral make-up look that pays close attention to a nourishing skincare routine. Alex Box focuses on making the girls feel relaxed and at ease with shoulder and facial massages and the use of essential oils. A natural flush is created with heated cloths infused with rose oil and lips are gently stained in a berry hue
Lead Artists: Alex Box for MAC Cosmetics / John Reyman for Aveda
Key Products: Aveda Damage Remedy Split End Repair, Volumising Tonic, Thickening Tonic, Control Force Firm Hold Hairspray, MAC Cosmetics Prep and Prime, Essential Oils, Eye Gloss, Just a Hint, Masters Palette in Deep Scarlet
BE FIRST WITH BEAUTY: From backstage buzz during fashion weeks, to emerging street style trends, our beauty editors are constantly publishing ahead-of-the-curve trend reports to keep our subscribers informed. Join WGSN.
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