Beautiful materials, embellishment and unexpected modernism at Mary Katrantzou

London: Opposites and contradiction in textile, silhouette and inspiration played a key role in Mary Katrantzou’s collection.  Models squished over the pink soundproofing foam that lined the catwalk path in shapes that one moment referenced Victoriana, the next the sixties and morphed into modern new ideas. Opening in grey – not print – the focus was on the body form and a ruffled silhouette. High-tech vacuum formed decorations contrasted with rococo swirls of lace, linear juxtaposed with sinuous and graphic futuristic shift dresses that followed ornate embellishment.  Though the thought process behind this collection was complex – the designer said she compared ‘horror vacui’ (fear of empty space) with its opposite, embossing, flocking and embroidery – don’t let this distract from the clothes where the production was immaculate and elevated this label to another level.  Stand outs were the lace layered and print duffle coats, with PVC ruffled like Victorian lace around the hood, the beaded Courreges style shift dresses, and intarsia mink and ‘sequined’ furs in hot pinks, ice blue and spiced yellows.– Camilla Morton

Theme: Opposites and embellishment and unexpected modernism

Key Items: Ruffled shift dresses / Printed duffle coats / Long skirts with trumpet hems / Sheath dresses

Colour: Grey / Pinks / Khakis / Ice blues / Spice yellow / Navy / Orange / Plum

Material and Trim: Intarsia mink / Lace / PVC / Wool flannel / Flocked paisley

Print and Pattern: Flocked paisley / Rococo lace / Geometric / Futuristic print

Footwear and Accessories: Ankle strapped platforms / Box clutch

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