Barbara Bui

A DELICATE BALANCE
Paris: Barbara Bui’s fall collection was about the balance of femininity and edginess, frailty and toughness. Using both slick leather and delicate lace, the designer sent out angular, slim ensembles that looked cosmopolitan and current. There was quite a bit of skin on display, as cropped tops and cutouts were both prevalent, but legs were always fully covered, keeping things from veering toward the vulgar. Shine became a key element as the show progressed; first, there were lacquered leathers and lustrous snakeskin, then came the sequins. Gold paillettes adorned the show’s final look, a slim suit worn by model-of-the-week, Catherine McNeil. Bui offered an earthy counterpoint to the glitzier looks with items embellished with shaggy yarn fringe, once again underlining the importance of balance. –Joanna Manganaro

Silhouette: Flared / Broad shoulders / Cropped / Hourglass / Oversized

Color:  Black / White / Gold

Key Items: Flared tailored pants / Angular collarless jackets / Cropped tops / Lace tops / Shaggy oversized coats / Capes

Materials: Slick leather / Delicate lace / Wool suitings / Cotton shirtings / Snakeskin / Patent leather / Curly fur / Silk with stretch / Ribbed metallic material

Details + Trim: Cutouts / Waist straps / Collarless details / Flared legs / Lace appliqués / Yarn fringe / Feathers / Fur panels / Ruching / Sequins / White cuffs

Accessories + Footwear: Double-buckle belts with gold hardware / Mid-calf boots / Thigh-high boots / Boots attached to leggings

View in RUNWAY: QUICK LOOK

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