Jul 04, 2017 | By Lizzy Bowring
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BODY CONSCIOUS ROMANCE
Paris: Barbara Bui practically invented the stretch leather trouser, a favorite among her customers and a reliable key item in a variety of markets. For S/S 13 Bui paired this must-have with elegant tailoring, from double-breasted coat dresses to sleeveless blazers fastened with subtle leather harnesses. Surface textures, including floral embroidery and colorful beading, were an uncharacteristically romantic touch for the designer, but served to diffuse overtly sexy leather minidresses and transparent chiffon blouses. In contrast, a handful of graphic tribal repeats seemed out of place and behind the curve, proving Bui’s real talent lies with Spring’s sharply cut body conscious basics.—Nina Stotler
Silhouette: Skinny / Body conscious / Tapered / Asymmetric
Color: Black / Nude / Gunmetal grey / White / Periwinkle / Lavender / Cobalt / Mint / Cherry red
Key Items: Leather trousers / Angular blazers / Jacket dresses / Lightweight chiffon blazers / Sleeveless blazers / Bib front shirting / Tapered silk trousers / Cropped shorts / Boxy jackets / Strapless minidresses
Materials: Slick stretch leather / Lightweight gabardine / Chiffon / Shiny silk / Organza / Jersey / Suede / Linen
Print + Pattern: Tonal florals / Geometric tribal repeats
Details + Trim: Cutouts / Bib fronts / Floral embroidery / Beading / Pleating & draping / Chiffon trains / Asymmetry
Accessories + Footwear: Pointy pumps / Crocodile bags / Backpacks / Weekend bags / Draped silk scarves
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