Paris: Balmain’s new designer Olivier Rousteing is well on his way to artfully redefining the French label recently famous for excess. After just a few seasons, he has toned down the rock and roll aggression Christophe Decarnin favored, choosing a sophisticated yet edgy alternative of more relaxed proportions, strong shoulders and printed silks. Not long ago, wide leg trousers would have been anathema at Balmain, but for Pre-Fall Rousteing gave them a slouchy appeal when paired with double breasted military jackets or leather button ups. Centering on a deep navy and forest green, the collection let loose with abstract florals printed on both classic body conscious dresses encrusted with pearls and quilted motorcycle jackets. Even when exploring florid, baroque motifs and fluid pajama sets, Balmain was a study in covetable high-end restraint.—Nina Stotler

Silhouette: Slim / Fitted / Wide / Body conscious

Color: Navy / Black / Mint / Fuchsia / Cherry red / White / Forest green / Cream / White / Blush pink

Key Items: Double breasted jackets / Silk pajama pants / Leather motorcycle jackets / Wide-leg trousers / Body conscious knit dresses / Leather button up shirts / Slim turtlenecks

Materials: Silk / Leather / Wool / Dévoré / Velvet / Cashmere

Print + Pattern: Abstract florals / Wallpaper prints

Details + Trim: Pearl embroidery / Crystal embroidery / Gold buttons / Buckles / Quilting / Zippers

Accessories + Footwear: Opaque hosiery / Ankle boots / Gold cuffs / Leather belts with ornate buckles

View Collection Images

Know what’s next. Become a WGSN member today to benefit from our daily trend intelligence, retail analytics, consumer insights and bespoke consultancy services.