Paris: Balmain’s Christophe Decarnin has a formula and he’s sticking with it. This season, he continued the bold-shouldered, ultra-short disco dresses and military-detailed jackets that made him an instant star several seasons ago. His signature skintight pants were carried over as well – this time in black leather, gold lamé or gold painted brocade – but the designer also introduced a flared leg pant that was a welcome departure. Worn separately or as part of a suit, the new silhouette indicated a tiny shift, which Decarnin will hopefully expand upon in seasons to come. Brocade coats over shining blouses looked like an ode to Anita Pallenberg during her Mick Jagger years, or perhaps they were inspired by early Prince. Even tailored pantsuits weren’t spared the glitz and glam – shining jacquards and rich brocades gave them a rock-and-roll sensibility. The overdose of flashy opulence flew in the face of the new minimalism that has emerged over the past couple seasons and demonstrated Decarnin’s commitment to the style that made him a boldface name. There will always be a market for the ultra-glam, and Balmain seems determined to be the go-to label for over-the-top luxe.

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