Balmain Cruise/Resort 2013


New York: Olivier Rousteing cited a trip to Miami as an influence for his Cruise/Resort collection. Miami in the 80s might have been a more accurate description. Sharp-shouldered long jackets and pleated, cuffed pants evoked the era, as did the saccharine pastel tones and faded denim. High hemlines for skirts and dresses balanced out the slouchier pieces, and bustier details added sex appeal. Kaleidoscopic black and white geometric prints – some mixed with florals – gave the collection a contemporary edge. Showing off Rousteing and his team’s excellent craftsmanship were elaborate beading for dresses and basket weaving for a wheat-colored blazer and dress. Both techniques appeared to be couture-quality. Though some of his clients may miss the skin-tight pants and body-con dresses of the past, Rousteing’s collection was on-trend while still offering the opulent and unabashedly sexy style for which the label has come to be known. ­–Joanna Manganaro 

Silhouette: Slouchy / Wide shoulders / Exaggerated fit-and-flare

Color: Pastel yellow / Mint green / Peachy pink / Golden wheat / Black / White

Key Items: Wide-shouldered blazers / Black and white tops / Pleated dresses / Fit-and-flare dresses

Materials: Printed silks / Suitings / Light denim / Silk crepe / Leather / Raffia

Print + Pattern: Checkerboard / Wide stripes / Florals (at times all combined)

Details + Trim: Tightly-packed beads / Knife pleats / Cuffs for pants / Bustier details / Flap pockets / Quilting

Accessories + Footwear: Silver-clasp belts with D-rings / Pointy-toe pumps / Peep-toe beaded ankle boots


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