Sep 21, 2018 | By Alice Gividen
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THROUGH THE MAGNIFYING GLASS
Paris: Anyone with the opinion that there’s nothing new in fashion anymore should look at Nicolas Ghesquière’s work for Balenciaga. The designer played with perception this season, delivering singular looks that were both challenging and wearable. The concept started with a magnifying glass; Ghesquière was inspired by the shifting points of view and plays on perspective that it offered. The result of this abstract train of thought was evident from the first look on the runway – an asymmetric floral skirt styled with a jacket knit from rope-like tubes of faux leather. The designer later sent out net-like pieces that could have been plays on zoomed-in images of tulle or mesh. In between, there were pieced separates that draped elegantly, and a standout salt-and-pepper tweed ensemble. The collection closed with an homage to the house’s namesake Cristobal Balenciaga (who also happens to be this season’s patron saint) – a kimono jacket made from a single rectangular piece of fabric. Directional yet grounded, this collection was one of Ghesquière’s most successful yet.
Color: Black / White / Navy / Neon pink / Purple / Burnt orange / Deep red / Burgundy
Key Items: Knit leather jackets / Draped skirts / Mesh dress / Salt-and-pepper tween suit / Slim pieced pants
Materials: Faux leather / Silk charmeuse / Salt-and-pepper tweed / Mesh / Taffeta / Spongey knits / Satin / Lamé
Print + Pattern: Vintage-inspired florals with thorns and reptiles
Details + Trim: Piecing & collaging / Draping / Gold chain trim / Color blocking / Contrast lapels
Accessories + Footwear: Envelope clutches / Knitted leather clutches / Multi-strap Mary Janes
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