Oct 16, 2018 | By Nigel Taylor
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New York: While searching through the Balenciaga archives, designer Nicholas Ghesquière came upon costumes that the founder of the house had created for a 1930s ballet production of Ravel’s Boléro. Ghesquière used them as a jumping-off point for his Cruise/Resort collection. Soft pinks, icy yellows and baby blues seemed to connect to the ballet theme, as did buoyant full skirts with ruffled hems. Leather harnesses and laser cutouts countered the sweetness, providing the edge for which the label is known. In keeping with the traditional idea of pre-collections, the clothes were perhaps not as directional as the main seasons’ offerings, but they still communicated the designer’s compelling vision, in addition to offering more wearable options. The suiting separates, flirty skirts, feminine dresses and boxy jackets will certainly resonate with Balenciaga clients. –Joanna Manganaro
Silhouette: Long + languid / Fit-and-flare / Rounded shoulders
Color: Baby blue / Soft pink / Icy yellow / Lavender / Chamomile / Taupe / Beige / Charcoal / White / Black
Key Items: Pleated pants / Ruffled skirts and dresses / Cutout tops / Leather harnesses
Materials: Neoprene / Wool suitings / Fluid silks / Leather / Medium-gauge yarns
Print + Pattern: Pinstripes / Diagonal stripes
Details + Trim: Ruffles / Cutouts / Unfinished hems / Wide elastic waistbands / Piecing
Accessories + Footwear: Wide headbands / Swim caps / Hoop earrings / Chunky rings / Two-tone clutches / Thin shoulder bags / Open-toe multiple bow ankle boots and tall boots / Chunky low-heeled T-straps
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