May 23, 2019 | By Alice Gividen
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PUMP UP THE VOLUME
New York: As he did for F/W 11, Nicolas Ghesquière looked to the Balenciaga archives for inspiration for his Resort collection. The designer reinterpreted Cristobal Balenciaga’s signature volume, giving jackets, shorts and what he called “umbrella skirts” an elegant buoyancy. Rounded shoulders were key for achieving the iconic cocoon-shaped silhouette. But shapes weren’t the only things borrowed from the archives; Ghesquière used a brick motif from the 60s, digitally juxtaposed against other patterns, including a textural black and white herringbone. Both motifs were also executed in intricate silver embroidery, creating a techno-craft feel. Seamlessly blending futuristic techniques with influences from the past is Ghesquière’s forte, and this collection showcased his inimitable ability. –Joanna Manganaro
Color: Rust / Red-orange / Warm beige / Mint green / Black / White / Cerulean blue / Pale pink / Magenta
Key Items: Voluminous jackets / Umbrella skirts / Gathered dresses / Embroidered pants
Materials: Bonded silk gazar / Organza / Silk crepe de chine / Crisp taffeta
Print + Pattern: Brick pattern from 60s Balenciaga archives / Herringbone / Pinstripes
Details + Trim: Gathering / Rounded or extended shoulders / Embroidery / Piecing
Accessories + Footwear: Leather visors / Sautoir necklaces / Doctor bags / Handbags / Low-slung belts / Peep-toe ankle-strap booties / Knee-high boots
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