5 hours ago | By Alice Gividen
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IN THE MEANTIME
New York: It’s time to begin getting used to a Balenciaga sans Nicolas Ghesquière, difficult as it may be. This season’s collection, created by the house’s design team, was the first in fifteen years to be without designer’s touch, and his absence was instantly apparent. Gone were the techy fabrics and sci-fi influences that characterized Ghesquière’s tenure. In their place were natural materials, including wool menswear suitings, plush furs, and printed silks. Whispers of Ghesquière appeared in awkwardly hip cropped pants and a perforated leather jacket, but the design team claimed that their focus was on the work of the house’s founder, Cristobal Balenciaga. Influences from the late master were felt with a round-shouldered tweed coat featuring a contrast lining, and a metallic beaded shift was a reproduction of one of his designs from 1966. Monsieur Balenciaga was an innovator, as is Ghesquière, which made his appointment at the label so appropriate and successful. Alexander Wang, Ghesquière’s successor, certainly has the potential to capture that spirit, and fashion followers are anxious to experience his take on the celebrated house in a mere two months. –Joanna Manganaro
Silhouette: Long over long / A-line / Boxy / Long and lean / Flared / Asymmetrical
Color: Black / Dusty blue / White / Poppy / Jungle green / Peach / Bronze / Saturated blue / Burnt orange / Heather grey / Navy
Key Items: Salt-and-pepper tweed coat / Printed cropped pants / Perforated leather coat / Bronze metallic shift / Teddy bear coat
Materials: Menswear suitings / Salt-and-pepper tweed / Printed silks / CDC / Jacquard / Chiffon / Matte wool / Perforated leather / Curly and shaved furs
Print + Pattern: Argyle / Colorful paisleys / Lush florals / Color blocking
Details + Trim: Beading / Contrast linings / Self-belts / Zip closures / Asymmetrical hemlines / Piecing / Sequins
Accessories + Footwear: Wide fabric headbands / Chunky bangles / Leather gloves / Minaudieres / Boxy bags / Flat ankle boots / Open-toe Mary Janes
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