Oct 05, 2017 | By Carlene Thomas Bailey
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Paris: Nicolas Ghesquière vacillated between man-tailored separates and dramatic, ruffled pieces during the first series of looks of his spring collection. The ruffles cascaded down one hitched-up side, evoking flamenco dresses. Was this a nod to Cristobal Balenciaga’s Spanish roots? Stiff, bonded crepes were used to create the striking shapes; cropped tops were rigidly boxy, and the ruffles held their shape. Though the ruffled looks were the more flamboyant of the bunch, one could not overlook the tailored pieces. The high-waisted pants and double-breasted blazers were wearable and ultra-chic. Known for his innovative fabrics, Ghesquière also presented engineered tweeds cut into hip, skin-baring versions of the Chanel suit. Barbed wire appliqués toughened up the last pass of looks, many of which were made from rigid thorn-shaped paillettes. –Joanna Manganaro
Silhouette: Hourglass / Asymmetrical / Slim and straight / Boxy
Color: Black / White / Periwinkle / Buttercream / Tan / Charcoal / Navy / Teal / Brick red / Blush / Banana
Key Items: Double-breasted pantsuits / Flamenco-ruffle dresses / Tweed skirt suits / Rigid paillette tank dresses / Openwork sweaters
Materials: Spongy wool suitings / Bonded silk crepe / Waffle textured cotton / Pinstriped wool / Fine and chunky yarns / Engineered tweed / Lace / Rigid attached paillettes
Print + Pattern: Geometric / Barbed wire / Bare twigs / Texture motifs
Details + Trim: Sweetheart necklines / Cascading ruffles / Double-breasted closures / Handkerchief hemlines / Accordion pleats / Barbed wire appliqués
Accessories + Footwear: Small gold pendant necklaces / Gold rings / Cylindrical top-handle bags of various sizes / Ankle boots with side cutouts / Lace-up oxfords with block heels
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