May 11, 2018 | By WGSN Insider
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Feb 13, 2012
Makeup: James Boehmer, Nars
Hair: Odile Gilbert, Kerastase
Nails: Ana-Maria, Essie
“The idea was this contrast between the real world and the magic world. It’s a little bit about fairies and we very intentionally did not want to do anything that was really colorful with the makeup because the collection is so colorful and full of patterns. The way they combine patterns and different textures in the clothing is so unbelievable that we didnt want the makeup to take away from it. So we did a 90s shape in the eye, a strong and straight little cat eye with pencils and creams. We’re drawing the shape in with the pencil, connecting the bottom line to the upper contour and leaving the center more bare. We’re blending it down so its really transparent but strong. Right before we send the girls on their way, we’re putting a burgundy lip gloss in the center of their eyelids so its a glassy, transparent smoky eye. The skin is incredibly luminous. There’s almost no foundation and a lot of moisturizer so it looks radiant, otherworldly and super dewy.
There’s no color on the lips or cheeks but we’re finishing the makeup look with a rose gold that I literally lifted from one the embroideries on the skirts. We’re fingering a rose gold highlight in the inner corner of the eye like a highlight, patting it on the bridge of the nose and the bow of the lip.
The look feels sort of 1700 inspired but really modern at the same time. What Odile is doing with the hair is just incredible so I didnt want the makeup to overpower what shes doing with the hair bc its so amazing.
Chris, one of the designers, said something that I thought was so interesting. He said, it’s almost like this self destructive desire for beauty. There was this book from the 1700s that was their starting point. I think it was a Keltic writer and it’s basically about fairies and magic and all that. In my head, I wanted the girls to look so incredibly beautiful but with an edge, like maybe they’re jumping off the deep end. When you put it all together, the hair and makeup are really dreamy, and the clothes are full of pattern and color, and they’re doing things with text this season, Swarovki crystals and found pieces of quilt. So there’s this beautiful assemblage in the collection so the makeup and hair needed to be strong but not fight it. I think it all works so beautifully” – James BoehmerProducts (all NARS): Pure Radiant Tinted Moisturizer SPF30, Cayenne Single Eyeshadow, Mambo Eyeliner Pencil, Bengali Single Eyeshadow, Coconut Grove Single Eyeshadow, Kuala Lumpur Duo Eyeshadow, Triple X Lip Gloss, Rouge Tribal Larger Than Life Lip Gloss (new for Spring 2012)
Products (all Kerastase): Mousse Substantive, Lotion Densitive, Double Force Controle Ultime, Double Force Hairspray
“We’re doing a bit of a Hollywood in the front, so I’m saying it’s Hollywood meets New York because in the back it’s all messed up, there’s braids, and its a bit like a nest. We’re using a lot of mousse and hairspray, and pinning the hair like you don’t know what you’re doing. We also have some acessories that were done by Creatures of the Wind in the back of the head. It’s finished with a glitter spray.” – Odile Gilbert
“The makeup is very soft and beautiful and the nails make the perfect statement. The color is universally flattering. There was a lot of layering to come up with the exact color that worked with the designers’ look. We layered Sew Psyched with Mint Candy Apple for creamy forest green nails.
We started with base coat, pushed back the cuticles and applied two coats of Sew Psyched and topped it off with Mint Candy Apple. We left two minutes in between each coat to give it time to set. To me, the color is very zen and very relaxing.
How do you feel about pastel colors for winter?
It’s fun. There are no rules. Years ago it was matchy matchy. There’s been a lot of color and now, pastels are the rage because it’s fresh and new. Everything that comes around goes around. Now people are ready. We’ve seen so much greige, muddy tones and now it’s all about clean and pretty. I love it.” – Essie Weingarten
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