May 11, 2018 | By WGSN Insider
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Feb 14, 2012
Makeup: Daniel Martin, Lancome
Skin: Eileen Harcourt, Intraceuticals
Hair: Nick Irwin, Catwalk by TIGI
Nails: Ana-Maria, Lancome
“The look for Chris Benz is quirky androgynous. We had this inspiration of Dolly Parton in The Best Little Whorehouse in Texas and Liza Minelli in Cabaret. So we have this shape of Dolly’s hair in the movie and what we’ve done is painted down the brow with a gluestick. So we flattened out the brow and created this ombre effect with the shadow using Lancome’s All That Glitters eyeshadow to the hollow of the eye and on the lid we’ve crushed silver shadow from an upcoming Fall palette. We’re applying it wet so it creates this line of light to dark. It’s still silver but you see this dimension. We’re using two coats of Hypnose Drama mascara on the lashes and using a new Fall palette that has a contour color (a highlighter an a cheek color) which is pretty amazing. We sculpted the cheek with this, the highlighter is on top, and we used the cheek color as the lip color. So we’re mixing the cheek color with a lipstick – Rouge in Love #307 – and then we put gloss on top. So the look is very androgynous. Once you see the clothes you really understand why we went this direction with hair and makeup because its so festive, feminine and girly. We always do something that is a little off.
We’re using fingers to apply. For the brow, we’re applying straight from the glue stick (Elmers). Girls can do this at home to tame their eyebrows because its non-toxic and it washes off with water. It’s enough that it cancels out the pigment and leaves the shadow flat without having to bleach your brows. It’s easier to experiment with, and a good alternative.
Some thoughts for fall makeup?
You’re seeing a lot of no mascara and a lot of color on the eyes, a lot of blue. I think for Fall you’re going to see a lot of experimentation. There’s no real rule. It’s a little of this and a little of that. You’re not going to see a lot of color. You’re seeing pops of red but not as much as last season or the season before. I think its more about individuality in a lot of ways.” – Daniel Martin
“Each girl gets an Atoxelen serum. It lets the skin smooth out and you get this glowing radiant glow. It’s hyaluronic acid and Japanese green tea and vitamins, so you can mold and sculpt the face. It helps to define the lip line and really imparts immediate moisture into the skin like a drink of water. The girls come in and they’re topically dehydrated, so it gives the makeup artist a smoother surface to work with.
The application is almost like airbrushing and we use medical grade oxygen, oxygen under pressure, and this is the vehicle that allows the infusing magic to happen. The oxygen under pressure is what infuses the serum into the skin. So we’re not just layering things on top of the skin that are going to evaporate and leave the girl topically dehydrated in an hour. This is actually a treatment that’s going to continue to bring the moisture from the body to the surface, so she’s really creating a beautiful skin from the inside out instead of from the outside in.” – Eileen HarcourtProducts (all Intraceuticals): Atoxelen Serum
“Inspiration is Judy Garland as her glamour was fading, as well as a 50s, 60s midwest housewife vibe. We created deconstructed beehives with acrylic wigs and used almost a full can of TIGI Catwalk Session Series Transforming Dry Shampoo on each model and finished with TIGI Catwalk Your Highness Firm Hold Hairspray.” – Nick Irwin
“We’re working with texture, reminiscent of the show from last season, but now just taking it to the next level and making it more effortless. It’s very undone, very Elizabeth Taylor on crack, very distorted with the texture.
We’re going in with a lot of dry shampoo and we set it on wigs, curled it up, wigs were inspiration from the 40s, and then try to make the most matte finish possible so the dry shampoo is going to help deliver that. From there, we’re sweeping it around a bit to create movement in the hair. So it looks beautiful but not too beautiful is the key.” – DJ RiggsProducts (all TIGI Catwalk): TIGI Catwalk Session Series Transforming Dry Shampoo, Your Highness Firm Hold Hairspray
“We’re going with three shades from Lancome. We’re going to complement the collection. I’m going to do a chocolate brown with a glossy finish. The other two shades are a soft lavender and a greyish-green and we’re doing a matte finish on those two to give it a sober look. We’re keeping the brown glossy because it tends to look funny matte.
We’re using a matte topcoat from Lancome and we’re applying it over the color that’s assigned to the model according to the outfit. ” – Ana-Maria
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