Backstage Beauty | Theyskens’ Theory – S/S 2012

Backstage Beauty: Theyskens' Theory S/S 2012The Look: Cool Girls
Makeup: James Kaliardos for MAC
Hair: Odile Gilbert for Kerastase
Nails: Jin Soon Choi for Zoya


The makeup directive from Olivier Theyskens was that he wanted the girls to look cool but with a little kick. So, Kaliardos used a khaki color on the eye with a reflective silver pigment shooting up the center of the eye. “It [the silver] gives you something special but you still look natural. It’s about treating each girl so they look the best they can in a minimal way with definition.” Cheeks were contoured with a taupe blush and MAC Lip Conditioner was patted into the lips with fingertips.

When asked about makeup looks for Spring 2012 thus far, Kaliardos mentioned that he’s been playing a lot with 70s beauty – tawny and Lauren Hutton-esque. “It looks natural but in fact you’re wearing a ton of makeup,” he explained.

Product: MAC Studio Finish Concealer, MAC Pro Blush in Taupe, MAC Pro Paintstick in White, MAC Pro Pigment in Platinum, Chromographic Liner, Lip Conditioner

“It looks totally natural but you still spent some time on it,” is how Odile Gilbert summarized the look. A bit of mousse, serum and hairspray was used to get an edgy texture and waves were a bit distressed. “It’s not a full curl, it’s like a girl curling her hair but she doesn’t know how to do it. She’s doing it badly. It’s a cool attitude.”

Products: Kerastase Double Force Controle Ultime

Jin Soon Choi layered two colors to get a simple, not-so-feminine effect. She painted one coat of Zoya’s Miley, a lilac, and painted a coat of Dharma, a sheer duochrome shimmer, on top. “It’s more cool than feminine and more simple, but something’s there,” she explained. For their initial meeting, Choi showed Theyskens a lot of colors but he was not into a specific color. So, she began to layer colors and he liked this particular combination.

For Spring 2012, Choi observed that she was surprised to see a lot of dark colors. “I thought it would be about natural and bright colors but I’ve been seeing dark color and bright color combinations. It’s kind of like breaking the rules.” If you’re going to wear dark colors for Spring, she doesn’t recommend wearing dark colors on fingers and toes. Instead, try pairing dark colors with bright or natural colors to keep it light.

Products: Miley and Dharma by Zoya
Backstage Beauty: Theyskens' Theory S/S 2012

Know what’s next. Become a WGSN member today to benefit from our daily trend intelligence, retail analytics, consumer insights and bespoke consultancy services.

WGSN Insider Bulletin

Get more with a WGSN membership. Click for a demo.

Related Stories

WGSN Beauty

Beauty and the packaging beast

Marimekko and Clinique collaborate for design-led packaging

Self-care is homeward bound