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Backstage Beauty | Ruffian

Makeup: James Kaliardos for MAC
Hair: Neil Moodie for Bumble & Bumble
Nails: Keri Blair for MAC 

MAKEUP
“We’re doing a 18th century meets a hipster from Williamsburg, Brooklyn, which is very interesting. We’re using this grey color, sort of like a Mozart grey, softly applied all over the eyelid and ending in the corner, but soft edges. It’s a cream, so it goes on very soft. This is a new brow color that we’re doing on everyone, and we’re drawing with a sharp brush. You just paint on a really edgy, straight line. One would almost say urban. Kind of perfect on the eyebrow, and then on the cheekbone were using this color called Luna from MAC, which is a pearlescent color right on the upper cheekbones so it gives a really strong glow and it’s quite futuristic.  Those hipsters always have a really pulled together looks. If you haven’t seen them you should take the L train, because their parents have twelve million dollars.  Their parents have twelve millions dollars, but they want to pretend they’re poor. It’s cute.

Most of the girls have a beige lip but on the redheads—there’s a few redheads in the show –we’re giving them this beautiful red, which is Ruffian red, the boys of Ruffian, Brian and Claude, designed it and it’s a perfect red.” – James Kaliardos

HAIR
“The collection’s based very much on couture meets streets, so I’m going for that slightly rockabilly  pompadour feel to the hair; very Latino street girl. I wanted to create something that feels like the girls are sort of doing their hair and dressing it up a little bit, but home-made too. We don’t want it to feel  like we were here all the time coiffing it up for them.

So, we prepped the hair with Bumble & Bumble Prep spray and layered it with a lot of styling cream, which allowed me to get this matte texture in the hair. Once we power dried that in, we backcombed through the roots on the top to give it that extra bit of height. Then, I’m taking Bumble and Bumble Sumotech and smoothing that through the sides so I get this slicker, flatter feel through here, and then I’m literally pulling the Sumotech through the front with my fingers so that breaks it up and makes it a little piece-y, a little bit rockabilly.” – Neil Moodie

NAILS
“Today is all about nail jewelry. How do we translate that for a girl who is inspired a little bit by baroque, a little bit by neoclassicism, and also lives in Williamsburg? Designers Claude and Brian have actually lived in Williamsburg for over ten years. They really stopped and took a look at all the things around them and got very inspired for this collection. So, we’re seeing a color palette of white, pink, and blue, and yellows. There’s even fabrics with small vignettes of scenes you would see in Williamsburg, like the Williamsburg bridge and the Bedford Stop, etc. And you know, girls that live in Brooklyn are practical girls. They’re workers, they’re musicians, they’re artists, they make jewelry, they’re on Instagram, their social media divas, so they need to have a practical nail but also something that expresses who they are.

So, depending on what the girl is wearing, we used one of those four shades. What’s really interesting about this polish is that they have small reflect pigments in them that gives an iridescent, reddish-pink shine to the polish. It overlays and gives a little bit of a textural quality to the nail. These polishes are something we’re testing backstage. Then, we thought would be really great to take nail art and evolve into nail jewelry. So, we have these pieces here that I hand bent to fit the nail bed because they came flat. We’re gluing them to the pinky and the ring finger as an accent, like you would with a ring or an earring or a necklace, except that we’re taking that onto the nail bed.” – Keri Blair

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