Backstage Beauty | Ruffian – S/S 2012

Backstage Beauty: Ruffian S/S 2012The Look: Society Girl Meets Jockey
Makeup: James Kaliardos for MAC
Hair: Neil Moodie for Bumble & Bumble
Nails: Yuna Park

James Kaliardos was inspired by a couple different women for the makeup look – Elizabeth Taylor, Jacqueline de Ribes and Sheena Easton. “The brows are Elizabeth Taylor, the liner is Jacqueline de Ribes photographed by Richard Avedon in a famous photograph and the peach blush is inspired by Sheena Easton. She wore a different color in the 80s, but I’m doing a peach which is lighter, but still gives more aggressive color to the face.” Because the makeup is focused around a graphic eye, Kaliardos could have gone with a more neutral face but decided to go with the blush to make the look “more colorful, more Spring.” Eyes were lined and enhanced with lashes and mascara and lips were nude. “It’s the idea of a thoroughbred, the perfect rich, well brought up, beautiful girl.”

Key to getting the graphic eye is MAC’s Penultimate Eye Liner. “It’s perfect because it’s like a calligraphy pen that has a soft edge so it’s easy to draw the line. It’s hard to get it sharp when they have a blunt-y tip.”

Products: MAC Penultimate Eye Liner in Black, Cake Mix Eyeshadow (new color for Spring 2012), Peach blush, Nude lip (new color for Spring 2012)

Moodie decided to do a full, “horse tail”-like ponytail to complement a collection inspired by jockey club mixed with society girls a la Princess Grace’s granddaughter, Charlotte Casiraghi. “They ride in the day and go out at night,” he explained. To get the super thick, sporty ponytails, Bumble and Bumble’s Thickening Hair Spray and Styling Cream were dried into the hair for volume. Hair was pulled into a tight ponytail, backcombed for dense, matte texture and tied into a three-strand braid. Shine spray was spritzed last for a glossy and matte finish that is very horsetail-like. Extensions were added for girls who needed a little extra length or volume.

Products: Bumble & Bumble Prep Spray, Thickening Hair Spray, Styling Cream, Shine Spray

This is the first time that Brian Wolk and Claude Morais (Ruffian designers) decided to hire someone private for nails. They selected two different colors from the clothes, one warm and one cool, to mix and match. Lead manicurist Yuna Park created seven graphic designs inspired by jockey jackets. Each girl got warm and cool colors with several different designs on each hand. “We’re going for an active length – not too long or too short, just enough to show the designs.”

Toes were painted a “Ruffian nude” – an opaque, powder pink.

Backstage Beauty: Ruffian S/S 2012

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