May 08, 2017 | By Carlene Thomas Bailey
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Feb 09, 2013
Makeup: James Kaliardos for MAC
Hair: Neil Moodie for Bumble & Bumble
Nails: Keri Blair for MAC
“At Ruffian, I’m doing a red eye, red cheek, red stained lip inspired by an Antonio Lopez show I saw at the Suzanne Geiss gallery in Soho, he’s an illustrative artist during the 1970s. We’re just playing with color today which is fun and showing that its possible to wear red eye shadow and still look really glamorous and great. We’re using this new color from MAC called Love’s Allure and putting that on the eye, almost like a smoky eye, no mascara, and we’re using it [Love’s Allure] on the cheek as well and blending it. There’s Pearl highlighter cream over that so you have this illuminated skin. Then, there’s B&B cream/foundation which is a multi-tasker, it disinfects, it moisturizes, it covers, its a great foundation. For lips we’re using two colors in this MAC palette (Red Statement and Fashion Muse) which are a red and a purple. We’re staining the lip with the red and it really stains your mouth. You tissue it off and you still have the color on your lip. Dab on the purple after that and it creates this perfect berry stained, bitten, naughty-looking mouth. And we’re strengthening the eyebrow with their MAC’s swivel eye pencils.
on the process of coming up with the look…
When I met with them [Ruffian designers], they had the Antonio book from the exhibition and I thought, I really want to do this. And then MAC presented their new colors and they had these reds and they [Ruffian] wanted to do something quite “girl in Scotland,” Victorian, and it all looked very Victorian doll to me. I had just done Kristen Stewart’s makeup for the cover of British Vogue with Mario Testino and I used a red because I thought she looked beautiful and glamorous but punky. I thought it was right for her character and I felt like they [Ruffian] wanted their girls to have that character. It’s a way of doing the smoky eye but making it more unusual and rebellious. I think thats the interesting you can do with makeup. It gives you character and your personality a little something. You don’t have to talk, you don’t have to do anything, but suddenly you have this look thats more defiant and I like that.” – James Kaliardos
“I’ve gone for this Victorian meets modern day Snow White. She’s on the highlands in Scotland getting blown about in the wind. I’ve put in this dry matted texture to the hair using Bumble & Bumble Styling Cream and their new Thickening Mousse through the underneath and drying it in naturally so hair gets quite matte-looking, brushing it through and tying the hair in a loose chignon in the back. The looseness is what makes it feel a bit Victorian-y. Through the sides I’m using a micro-crimping iron from the mid-lengths through to the ends and when we brush it out, its like this fine flyaway-like frizz. But it feels very light, its not retro, its not 80s, its a more contemporary version
on trends for F/W 13:
There’s a definite trend for matte textured hair. It seems to be coming in a lot of different shapes and guises but I think its about this matted texture.” – Neil Moodie
“The nail is inspired by opium dens, Scottish moors, oriental fabrics, and there’s also a bit of a watersnake feel to the nail. After talking to Claude and Brian, they wanted a snakeskin feel to the nail, almost like an accessory, like a piece of jewelry or an accessory to the outfits. We created a black nail using Nocturne nail polish by MAC and we added a small piece of tulle with clear nail lacquer on top to create this textured, almost snake effect. On the ring fingers, we sourced tiny little cameos that are placed on top of the nails. Small veils were glued on to the base of the nail and then flipped over the top to give it a gothic “bedeckened” (thats a very Jewish term), a little blusher for the nail.
The nail shape was inspired by Barbra Streisand in the 70s, like really long, “so wrong its right” kind of a feeling. Its a little bit street, a little bit high end, a little bit gothic, a little bit Victorian. There’s so many things happening that it really gives so much room to play with when you’re creating something for them. I also thought Winona Ryder in Beetlejuice and that concept of her having that gothic edge, like veiling herself for no reason and being in mourning. I think an opium den has that kind of feeling as well, there’s a little bit of sadness there. And i love the idea of the veil on the nail.” – Keri Blair
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