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Backstage Beauty | Richard Chai

Makeup: James Kaliardos for MAC 
Hair: Frank Rizierri & Kevin Ryan for Aveda
Nails: Jane Park for Julep

BACKSTAGE BEAUTY: RICHARD CHAI NYFW S/S 13 from Stylesight on Vimeo.

MAKEUP
“We’re doing a soft, graphic eye, a ‘60s eye that has the floating contour and liner, slightly above the lash line, but we’re doing it in a new product, Fluidline, which sets, and the color is dirty blonde so it’s a taupe-y color, so it’s not a black or a dark charcoal, its quite subtle, it’s almost en par with the skin tone, so you still get the graphism, but it’s much softer and subtler, and beautiful and sheer looking.

This color is great, the taupey-dirty blond color looks really good on everyone. We’ve done it on dark skins, on pale skins, on Asians, it works really well on everyone. It kind of defines the eye. The color just works, it’s a mushroomy gray, and it’s very beautiful.

A graphic eye means sort of a Barbra Streisand eye, or a Peggy Moffitt eye. It comes from the Egyptians, and then in the ‘30s, Greta Garbo did it, and then in the ‘60s, we started re-doing it, like Barbra Streisand and people in fashion. It gives you this regard. It looks great on everyone, but we wanted to interpret it and make it softer.

For the rest of the face, we’re doing sporty skin, a pale pout, nude-y, moisturized lip.” – James Kaliardos

HAIR
“Richard is very specific about the hair, I think he could be a hair dresser if he wasn’t a designer. So the hair is quite sleek. It has two angled parts, and then pulled back very sleek into a low ponytail. The guys’ hair is gelled. We tried to mimic the part on the men, but their hair is short, so it actually goes into a little bit more of a shape.

We were inspired by the clean lines of the clothes. Right now, I’m just adding some thickness to her hair with tape extensions, really simple. Because this is for the show, we’re doing it really quick. Normally you cut it into small shapes, and wrap it around the head. These extensions are from a new line that is launching called L’amore. This will last 6-8 weeks, maybe a little longer, depending on how you care for it.” – Frank Rizzieri

“For the boys, we’re  moving the hair around so it doesn’t look like you’re trying too hard. We’re using gel, it’s nice, it smells good, and it’s strong. We’re going to comb it, and then do something after to throw it out. I do nice hair and then change my mind, because Richard  never wants what’s expected. And the same with the girls. So it’ll be clean, kind of fast, zip-it, aerodynamic pony, but with the same wrong parting. Sleek, straight, brushlike at the bottom, as spiky as we can get it. We’re using clear elastics to fasten them. We get a lot of them from Ricky’s. Ricky’s has everything in it.

To make the perfect ponytail at home, get good elastics, a nice bristle brush, Mason Pearson if you can get one, don’t have your hair too clean, and just be prepared to redo it. And a mirror so you can see the back.

I use a mixture of gel and then at the end, I’m using the Brilliant Line that’s plant-derived oil, it’s not silicone. Silica is devil’s work. The thing with silica is that it’s a quick fix, but you pay for it later. When people use silica products, the day they stop and wash that out, that takes all the good from their hair. Silicone is a bit of a confusing thing with hair. It’s still going on. But oils are good because your hair can drink them in. You’re supposed to be feeding your hair.  You have to know what you’re doing, and what it’s going to do later. You have to know the difference.

Fashion Week essentials? Mainly water, patience, and knowing that your job is absurd.” – Kevin Ryan

NAILS
“We did the nail look for Richard Chai this season. To go along with his muted neutrals, we chose Sienna, which is a liquid gold with a matte top coat. What’s fun about putting a matte top coat is that it looks like a suede. It’s unique and adds a little shimmer without detracting or taking away attention from his beautiful collection.

We’re doing a short nail today with one coat to make it super sheer. The sheer coverage with one coat adds just a little bit of shimmer, and then we’re putting a matte top coat on top of that. But two coats creates more opacity and you get a more metallic look.

I really like the muted metallics that aren’t so in-your-face. I think a muted metallic, like our Sienna, can go with a lot of different outfits and they can be perfect for Fashion Week where you’re wearing sophisticated outfits, or it can be great with a pair of jeans and a white shirt. I love the fact that there is so much versatility.” – June Park


 

 

 

 

 

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