Feb 14, 2018 | By WGSN Insider
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Sep 08, 2012
Makeup: Tom Pecheux for MAC
Hair: Eugene Souleiman for Wella Professionals
Colorist: Aura Friedman for Wella Professionals
Nails: Rebecca Isa for Zoya
“The inspiration is color. Peter Som makes clothes that are very feminine and elegant but cool, and fresh. He makes the girl feel good. As a person, he’s such a fresh, lovely, innocent guy, almost like a children’s mind, and I love that. That’s what I wanted to express on the face.
We start with a very thin layer of foundation. All the girls are coming back from vacation, they have that glow. The skin is rested, very moist. That’s why we use very little foundation, very thin layer of powder, no need for blush, no eyebrow, no mascara. We’re playing with creamy eyeshadow color, mostly pastels. We don’t use any brushes, just our finger, to make it like a children’s mind. We’re playing with five different families of color on the eyelid. There’s a pastel yellow, mauve, blue, green, orange and a pink. We do a pastel from the inside corner to the outside corner of the eyes, from the crease to the eyebrow, and after, we do one touch of vivid color right there under the eyebrow. For the lid, we use a very nude color, not to give color to the lid, but to make the color very moist, to give it texture.
I want to play with the children’s mind, when they do everything for no reason, and unfortunately, we lose that when we get older. You always do something because there is a purpose, a meaning of doing it.” – Tom Pecheux
“There’s this big feminist movement. Its about women expressing themselves. I’m inspired by Riot Girls, which I once was. I lived it. That’s something I’ve been noticing a lot of, through color, through everything. I feel like trends are going through the self-expression mode that happened in the 90s, but the difference is that it’s more luxurious and a different age group. I’m in my 30s and I can do it, but in a way where it’s softer. The idea is for it to still look pretty and luxurious and kept, or unkept in that pastel dusty tone.
The idea of the color is this fusion and melting of metallic pastels, with a few brighter bits thrown in there. The metallic portion is meant to give it a slight dusty look but still shiny. My inspiration for that is the French Impressionist movement, anyone from Cézanne to Monet. You can see the darker teal blues come from the water of the lily pads, and then the field of flowers by Cézanne. Those greens, soft pinks, the lavenders and all those colors meshed into one, its like a palette.
The look of this girl is really cool. She’s kind of this badass, Upper East Side bad girl gone to East Village. She’s a party girl, she’s out every night, but she’s doing fun things with her hair. She’s got a great sense of style, she’s really cool, so she doesn’t really try very hard. Maybe one day she rolled into the salon and said, “Color my hair, I want every color,” but she let it fade, because she doesn’t care to maintain it. She looks gorgeous enough that it doesn’t matter anyway.” – Aura Friedman
“We’ve once again done beautiful custom color for Peter. The palette is a creamy beige, a beautiful creamsicle orange and a mint green. What you’re going to see coming down the runway today is a classic French manicure, however, there is a twist. The base color of the French manicure is the mint green, and the tip is the creamy orange. It’s very different from a traditional French. The design is classic, the color choice is modern. I love the combination. The designer gave us inspiration via fabric swatches (a beige, mint and an orange) and a thought to carry with us – women on the verge, à la Valley of the Dolls – and you can see that throughout the collection. I wanted to do full coverage opaque because that’s easy to apply. Peter was very firm that he wanted the nails to look beautiful, smooth and glossy. The three colors will be available following the show for a limited time.” – Rebecca Isa
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