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Backstage Beauty | Peter Som – S/S 2012

Backstage Beauty: Peter Som S/S 2012Look: Naughty 60s
Makeup: Tom Pecheux for MAC
Hair: Eugene Souleiman for Wella Professionals
Hair Color: Aura Friedman for Wella Professionals
Nails: Zoya Nails

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4XlEKLe74qs&feature=channel_video_title

Makeup
Pecheux was inspired by the hint of 60s flavor in the shape of Som’s clothes. “Peter wanted the girls to be made up but we thought black would be too much and too natural would not go with the colorful prints. So we gave it a twist by using a violet burgundy, a color that has nothing to do with the collection,” he said. The key makeup element was the 60s-inspired burgundy “banana” in the eye crease. He used violet pencil under the eyes and a lot of mascara on top and bottom lashes. Cheeks were a healthy rose color and lips were nude with dewy matte skin.

To achieve dewy matte skin, Pecheux explained that the T-zone should always be matte and cheeks should be dewy. There are two ways to do this: 1. powder just the T-zone or 2. powder the entire face and then brush on some highlights high on the cheeks for that glow.

When asked if burgundy is easy to wear, Pecheux nodded yes. “For me, burgundy feels like a pastel color. I don’t associate burgundy to a vivid color. Eugene [lead hairstylist] is putting the pastel pink-y color in the hair and I love the face to be pastel-ish, a bit washed out, to have that sexy romantic feeling. Burgundy is like a wash of color. It’s especially amazing if you have blue, green or light brown eyes.”

Hair
“It’s bad hair for a bad girl from a rich family,” described Souleiman of the 60s based hairstyle, sort of “Julie Christie meets Courtney Love.” Hair was blown out with a round brush for movement and put into a strict low part. The rose gold extensions were glued in so the girls would look a bit “East Village-y, like they had their hair colored really brightly and it had faded. So it’s a little unkempt.” Hair was sprayed with Ocean Spritz, a saline product that slightly dries the roots of the hair to create a raw, imperfect finish. “I felt that everything in the collection is so beautiful and well put together that I decided that what I did would not be well put together. I think that’s what makes it look contemporary.”

He took a “bespoke” approach, tailoring the look to suit each girl and working with each girl’s hair length and texture. “We’re working with what the girls have and turning up the character with their hair texture but the color brings them all together. I want the girls to still look like themselves. Sometimes when I look at shows, some hairstyles look really great on some girls and not so much on other girls. What’s great about this look is that all the girls look great. I don’t want them to look like models. I want them to look like real, stylish, edgy women.”

Products: Wella Professionals Perfect Setting Blow Dry Lotion, Ocean Spritz Beach Texture Hairspray

Hair Color
Friedman created the rose gold wefts that were placed in the hair. “I’m so excited because I finally get to do my favorite tones that I’m totally infatuated with and obsess over. The reason why I love rose golds so much is because they’re bold yet feminine and they worked really well with Peter’s Spring looks.” The rose tones in the extensions matched the bold rose graphics in Som’s clothing. They were slipped under a thin layer of hair, like the spot highlighting technique, for a strong statement look while the tones provided a softness. “What I noticed about Peter is that he’s really into the 60s and even these dusty pink-y almost powder-y tones are from the 60s.” She mentioned vintage Playboy magazines as one of her sources of inspiration. “They’re a great source of inspiration – amazing hair color and art direction.”

To create the color, Friedman mixed Wella Professional colors from the Color Touch line and the Color Touch Relights line. “The great thing about Color Touch Relights is that they’re pure tones and when you add a bit of those pure tones it’s a bit like mixing paint, thinning it out and painting watercolors.” She went on to say that rose gold is the hot color of the moment. Although she’s been doing this color for years, it’s only recently that more people actively asking for it.

Products: Wella Professionals Color Touch and Color Touch Relights
Read more about Aura in our profile of her from the S/S 11 season.

Nails
Nails were clean and groomed to keep the focus on the clothes. The color was a soft, flesh-toned pink nude with a subtle iridescence (silver-y glitter) that provided just the right pop.

Product: Erin by Zoya Nails

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