Backstage Beauty I Creatures of the Wind

Make Up “The first thing that we talked about were teddy girls in Britain after World War II and the Memphis furniture movement. Then …

Feb 07, 2013
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Make Up

“The first thing that we talked about were teddy girls in Britain after World War II and the Memphis furniture movement. Then we started talking about this idea of candy and artificiality, the plasticized nature of candy. With makeup we started with texture instead of color; so it’s about how to make something that isn’t there, there and strong. The color comes from the shoes which have a beautiful rose gold, pearl patent leather. We didn’t want anything to be too warm or too much color or too noticeable, and we wanted something that would look good on every girl from the lightest to the darkest. So this color you would normally use in a very natural way, (Nars) Maldives Multiple and Nepal eye shadow. We’re using it in a very geometric and graphic way, that’s the call out to Memphis furniture. We’re taking the Maldives cream first and drawing a straight line from the center of the eye out to the outer corner, then filling in the whole lid. To get the texture and the color, we’re taking Nepal eye shadow and packing it on. In the inner corner of the eye, to balance the strong shape, we’re using Alhambra eye shadow.  It’s strong and quiet at the same time. We’re using the new fall brow collection, four pencils and the clear gel to punch the brows up. For the lips we’re using Total Replenishing Eye Cream so the lips aren’t shiny but still soft and hydrated. We didn’t want any color on the lips so they are the girls’ natural lip color, because part of the contrast to the pearl eye shadow is making the skin very matte. We’re using our radiant creamy concealers and loose powder so it has a transparent feeling but its very matte so that the eye makeup stands out more.” – James Boehmer for NARS

Products Used: all NARS

Sheer Matte Foundation, Radiant Creamy Concealer, Maldives Multiple, Copacabana Multiple, Nepal Single Eyeshadow, Alhambra Duo Eyeshadow, Larger than Life Lengthening Mascara, Brow Gel (new for Spring 2013)

Hair

“We’re doing a middle part with product to make the hair really sleek and flat until the ears. Then we’re using a three branch iron to create a flat wave and we use (Kerastase) Double Force Control Ultime hairspray. Then we finish with Elixir Ultime because we want the hair to be a bit shiny because they wanted a cool look. On some of the girls we have sunglasses that go on top of the hair. The top of the hair is sophisticated and the bottom is cool so there is a nice contrast.” – Odile Gilbert for Kerastase

Nails

“We were inspired by 80’s style colors, graphic prints, and bold geometric shapes. At the same time we wanted to convey a youthful sporty element. We created this unique look for them with a shorter, soft rounded square shape (the sporty element). The length and shape can really tell the story. Then we did three different color blocking techniques, we did an orange and beige, a grey and beige, and a white and grey. That was the base taking cues from the fabrics. On top, we did a “graffiti” design in teal, blue, orange and brown to give an artistic flair. The nails are very energetic, when you look at them there is a lot of static, a lot of movement.

The soft, short square is a trend we are forecasting for fall primarily because it is youthful and sporty. It depends on the color, but these colors, even bright colors, look sportier and younger on a shorter, softer square. What’s hot right now is the medium length tapered almond. At CND, we’ve been doing that for 10 years and its just now becoming mainstream. I think women are liking the idea of wearing something more feminine. We have one show later on in the week that has that trend of a little longer, almost talon like nail. If you’re going darker in the fall its more mysterious and you can go longer. For us, length and shape play a huge part in telling the story so we really have to understand who the woman is before we create the nail style for the designer.” – Roxanne Valinoti for CND

Products Used: all CND

For Base: Electric Orange, Impossibly Plush, Cityscape, Asphalt, Svelte Suede, Studio White

For Graffiti: Blue Rapture, Seaside Party, Faux Fur

Image courtesy of Nars

Image courtesy of Nars


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