Oct 23, 2018 | By Theresa Yee
Get more with a WGSN membership. Click for a demo.
Feb 11, 2013
Makeup: Gordon Espinet for MAC
Hair: Rolando Beauchamp for Bumble & Bumble
“The collection is a real mix of concepts in my mind, I see Victorian, futuristic, luxury, opulence and there is continuity to the silhouettes, distinct shapes and lines. We wanted a look that had a strong, powerful impact but without a lot of makeup. We’re using a lot of primer and colorless products on the skin to create perfected skin in terms of texture. It’s not about makeup its about the natural skin, we want to see a human being. The brows are very groomed with the brow set but not drawn on or styled. We’re using MAC Chromaline. Every girl starts with a very thin black line along the lash line that doesn’t extend, it doesn’t do anything other then exaggerate the shape of the girls eye. Above that we add a light color, everyone gets a little bit of a different color, but again its very thin because its not about creating an effect it’s about details, the girl is the effect. For example, the first girl that I did is wearing cherry red so above the black line I did a pastel pink and then in the crease of the eye I did an aubergine, eggplant color. So rather then put a red there, which would be matchy matchy, I took complimentary colors that worked well with her pale skin and dark hair. The look is very graphic but the lines follow the unique shape of each girl and the key thing to take away is that it is about the individual; we didn’t want clones walking down the runway. On the lips we’re using Mac Pro Lip Erase to bring down the color a bit. We’re stepping away from the idea of adding girliness to the makeup, so there is no mascara, no blush, and no rosy lips. What I aim for in a makeup is to make someone beautiful, I’m not into weird for weird’s sake and I think even if you do interesting details the end result should always be a beautiful girl.
We’ve had this discussion for a few seasons now but the skin is taking on the most important role. For fall, it’s all about great skin because we have all this technology now that can give us great looking skin. Also for fall, the natural brow is back. At times it’s almost a boyish brow. Color is definitely playing a part as well; we aren’t into the bleached eyebrows and removing all color from the face anymore. Now it’s about having a pop of color as sort of a conversational piece. The idea of using makeup as an accessory versus something that is necessary.” – Gordon Espinet for MAC
“What’s great about the hair is that when the girl is walking down the runway you only see one side and then she turns around and you see the other side so you really get two different looks. It’s couture and elegant but with a twist. The inspiration came from Beyoncé at the inauguration, I loved the slickness of her hair and then when Alexandre showed in Brazil, the hair was parted, slick and down, so I wanted to have the same idea but do something different with it. So we’ve parted the hair on the side and braided one side to keep it back instead of pinning it. To start we saturate the hair with a mix of Bumble and Bumble Styling Lotion and Bumble and Bumble Thickening Hairspray. Then we do a perfect side part and blow-dry it flat to the head. For the braided section I take Bb Gel and mix it with Bb Grooming Cream to give it a nice finish, we slick it into the hair then slick the sides back tight and then do a cornrow and tuck the ends in. To finish the ends we use a bit of Crème de Contour (I couldn’t find this product on the Bb website so if you have a list of what they used definitely double check the name) and iron it a little. – Rolando Beauchamp for Bumble and Bumble
Know what’s next. Become a WGSN member today to benefit from our daily trend intelligence, retail analytics, consumer insights and bespoke consultancy services.