Feb 14, 2018 | By WGSN Insider
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Sep 06, 2012
Makeup: James Boehmer for Nars
Hair: Odile Gilbert for Kerastase
Nails: Ana-Maria for Essie
“Shane and Chris always have this idea of opposing forces. The clothes are so incredibly tailored and beautiful. They were looking at vintage couture shapes and construction so even when you don’t necessarily see something very complicated in its appearance, the details and the construction of the clothes are so immaculate. For the hair and makeup, we were talking about it being a little away from that, so the girls don’t feel too prim or too ladylike. Shane and Chris were talking to me about a Japanese Godzilla movie that they had watched. The female character in the movie, her soul is captured and put into a rose, but then she becomes a monster and fights Godzilla. It’s this idea of monstrous beauty. It’s a little bit of a Riot Grrrl, a little on the edge of punk. The eye makeup itself is actually lipstick, a beautiful cranberry matte color. We’re leaving it deliberately smudged and transparent so it has that aggression to it. It’s the idea that the girl did it herself. To make it more beautiful, we’re using this beautiful silver pencil on the bottom to illuminate and open the eye. And there’s mascara on the top and bottom. Then, we’re leaving the skin very radiant and glowing, we’re using our Nars Moisturizer, which has a beautiful finish. For the lips, we talked very specifically about it not looking like a color, but more like an effect, like the girls had been making out with somebody. Or the lip is slightly chapped, in that beautiful way like when somebody has bitten your lip. What Odile did with the hair is amazing, it’s this incredible hair sculpture, very modern, I’ve never seen anything like it, she’s so incredible. I think again that with the makeup and the clothes, it creates this strong, very powerful woman. Somehow it feels real, although its definitely, as always a fantasy, but something about the balance that works.
There’s something that feels a little bit like manga about it, but not in a real obvious sort of way. The idea that it’s a little more lived-in, and it’s a little bit more transparent or broken, a little more destroyed. It makes it not feel so perfect. It’s a manga, anime, sort of perfection but with a cooler vibe.” – James Boehmer
“We use a technique that the Japanese call origami, so we cross the hair from the back to clear the bang, from the side to the short piece in the side, cross in the back and then we put a net, that we attach to the head, so its just the effect of bang and short.
We want the effect of short hair, but we don’t want to cut the hair, so it’s a technique, like plie or a plissage, to bring the hair from one side to the other side, from the back to the front, and then we get short pieces and bangs.” – Odile Gilbert
“I work with whatever nail shape they (models) have, because their nails are so abused. I try to not file too much, but preferably an oval-ly-round nail bed. For the base coat, either Essie’s Sensitivity Base Coat, or First Base Coat. Then, I’m applying two coats of Topless and Barefoot, which is a rosy beige solid, not sheer, from Essie. I’m sealing it with Matte About You Top Coat, which gives that matte look to the nail.
The collection has a retro inspiration with a more modern look to it. The matte finish complements perfectly.” – Ana-Maria
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