Feb 14, 2018 | By WGSN Insider
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Sep 12, 2012
Makeup: Tom Pecheux for MAC
Hair: Peter Gray for Morrocanoil
Nails: Deborah Lippmann for Deborah Lippmann
“Today, our girl is the ‘Virgin Goddess Lost in the Wood.’ The collection is, not pastel colors, but very washed out color. As you know, fashion goes from one extreme to another. Last season, for winter, the girl was very spooky, with tons of hair and make up. Today, we’re doing a very light, fresh makeup. We want the girl to have big eyes, rosy cheeks, and rosy lips. There is no mascara. We do the eyebrow a little bit bushy because she is worried about being lost in the woods. She has white on the inside of the eye, a very pastel washed out yellow all around the eye. Yellow makes the eye really big, very fresh. Yellow is extremely amazing when you want to create a true highlight on the eyes. It’s magical because it really catches the light, and makes it more incredible than just eye shadow. We will dab on the lip, to create a tint and a texture on the lip. We’re doing it so subtle because as soon as we have a little bit of mascara, or a bit more cheek color, or a little bit of a highlight, you will create a bride. I don’t want her to look like a bride because this is not a bridal collection. It has a fashion point of view.” – Tom Pecheux
“It’s the Midsummer’s Night Dream 1935 version with Olivia de Havilland. The guys weren’t talking about colors or textures, it was all about chiffons and it was all about floaty, diaphanous. It was pretty, angelic, wood nymphs. I thought, I can go something hard and metallic, which are the shoes, or I can go with clothing. I decided this season to go with the clothing. I really liked it when Olivia de Havilland was this dreamy wooden nymph who’s in the forest, sitting amongst the grass and flowers and trees and very much a part of the forest. I wanted to do soft floaty hair.
There’s a braid pinned underneath. That creates a shelf which allows me to pin it, so it doesn’t slip. It’s going to be totally hidden underneath the hair. It’s a foundation of the new Moracconoil Volumizing Mousse, blow-dried and crimped very lightly. The crimp gives the hair this soft floaty texture. Then we’re doing this braid from the back of ear across the middle of the back of the head. All the hair is picked up and pinned into that. It’s a very photographic look, but it’s going to be very firm. When you want an up-do, it never stays because pins slip out of the hair, but because of the braid, it holds it firm. The hair on top is going to be flat and smooth, using the Moracconoil Strong Spray, just to keep the contrast. I like the idea of the top being flat and then having all the soft floaty texture behind. Right at the end I’m just going to do a spritz of Glimmer Shine Spray.
When you’re doing hair for designers like Badgley Mischka, you always get to do hair at the show. There’s never a question of probably not, we’re going to do something simple like a ponytail, because they love glamour and they love something exciting. They want the detail, they like the effort. You look at someone like them, who I love working with, because they create their own look.” – Peter Gray
It’s a really beautiful collection inspired by the 1930s version of A Midsummer Night’s Dream. So, the main characters are lost in the forest and they are finding love. So, we’re envisioning that they’ve just had a romp, so the hair is very is messy fabulous and the makeup is very clean as though it were there but a little bit gone. The collection has a lot of very muted pastels running all the way through, so we wanted to find one color that worked for the entire collection and we all settled unanimously on mauve. I think mauve is the new nude. We’ve done sheer pink. We’ve done sheer beiges and greiges and now we’re back to a pretty version of a dirty nude. I enjoy something that isn’t so prissy and clean, so this color works perfectly for this Badgley girl.” – Deborah Lippmann
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