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Back to the Future

LONDON…After last season’s exploration of ’40s/50s couture, Giles Deacon moved things forward several decades, starting with a series of modern quasi-active looks with padded volume that brought to mind previous ideas explored by Japanese designers Rei Kawakubo and Junya Watanabe. However, it wasn’t long before Giles was off and running in a different direction of the Gothic variety that has finally been cemented in our minds as a bone fide theme this week. Girls with veiled faces wore black and midnight dresses with slashes and fragile cobweb knit inserts. The designer’s band of faithful party girl clients were not forgotten either, with yards of nude satin and red tulle on display. Girls teetered on strappy fetish sandals with major Swarovski bling. Giles Deacon’s work goes from strength to strength as the seasons pass, each collection always exploring new directions, exactly what is expected from a talented Londoner designer.

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GILES

The fervor of excitement that whips up around Gareth Pugh’s shows brings to mind the London fashion weeks of seasons past and the early days of Alexander McQueen and Hussein Chalayan; or looking even further back to John Galliano and Viv Westwood. The crowds descend expecting not just to see clothes but also a spectacle and those that did this time were not disappointed. The collection could easily do double-duty as wardrobe for a movie, more specifically with a Japanese warrior theme; cubic boleros, a metallic, space uniform with winged shoulders, a micro-skirt and leggings constructed from zippers! Maxi-coats and cowl-necked dresses some also made from zips, others from horse-hair, goat fur and safety pins. An exploration of the dark side to be sure, but what a light at the end of the tunnel.

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GARETH PUGH

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