Sep 21, 2018 | By Alice Gividen
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THE UNCOVENTIONAL MASTER
Paris: Azzedine Alaïa plays by his own rules. The iconic designer refuses to bow to retailers’ demands for four collections a year and hasn’t held a runway show in eight years, and yet he still has some of the most loyal followers in fashion and prime real estate in top retailers around the globe. For his triumphant return to the runway for Haute Couture, the designer presented signature elements mixed with new details for a collection that wowed the international press and delighted his fans. Body-con and fit-and-flare silhouettes – both Alaïa favorites – were in heavy rotation, and the skater skirt looks for which he is known featured scalloped edges often decked out in fur trim. Hemlines that hit just below the knee were big news, coming from a designer so fond of showing the leg; sculpted coats and luxe patent croc suits and separates all featured the longer length. Knits, of course, were a highlight, and the current versions were long, drop-waisted numbers festooned with flamenco ruffles. With this masterful collection and the enormous buzz surrounding it, Alaïa proved that good design and a strong, truly felt aesthetic are what really count. –Joanna Manganaro
Color: Burgundy / Bottle green / Sage / Black / Ivory / Icy pink
Key Items: Skater dresses and skirts / Sculpted coats / Patent croc pencil skirts / Long knit dresses
Materials: Croc skin / Jacquard / Firm felted wool / Engineered knit / Velvet / Mongolian lamb
Details + Trim: Scalloped hems / Tiered ruffles / Feather trim / Inverted pleats / Dropped shoulders
Accessories + Footwear: Lace-up booties / Embellished ankle boots
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