May 07, 2018 | By Lizzy Bowring
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FLIGHT OF FANCY
Although Atsuro Tayama has been offering strong collections in Paris for the past few years, he has yet to capture the attention of the mainstream media. Inspired by kites, perhaps this will be the collection that helps him take flight. Starburst fractals of color and fabric, oversized grommets, drawstrings, and intricate diamond-shaped folds echoed the construction of the wind-born contraption. The collection worked best when it emanated the delicate and airy quality of kites, such as in the handkerchief-hemmed skirts, billowing plaid caftans, blouson bloomers, and deconstructed anoraks, all in a lovely, subtle palette of pales and neutrals. The inspiration later took on a more structured aspect, with the folds creating an armor-like pattern. While impressive, at times the details overwhelmed the garments and got in the way of a cohesive message. There seemed to be a few too many ideas working — the collection jumped from tropical florals to Victorian raw-edged ruffle trimming — but Tayama showed the most promise when he seemed to work by instinct, allowing the winds to carry him.
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