Oct 29, 2018 | By Alice Gividen
Milan…Always an editor favorite, Neil Barrett continued his journey from his F/W 09 experiment in harmony, where he explored notions of composing seemingly dissimilar fabrics and silhouettes. His S/S 10 collection wasn’t necessarily inspired by a particular group of people like in seasons past, but rather by the actual fusion of fabrics and finishes (he called the collection “Artisan Bonding”). The show opened with an airy-light group of painted linen jackets and trench coats, some with what looked like layered lapels sewn together. Leathers and knits were also juxtaposed, giving off a scintillating aura of shiny versus matte, a huge theme of the collection. As with other shows at Milan Fashion Week, Barrett took some direction from the Colonial look of the Indian military. Loose-fitting pants were styled with cropped double-breasted jackets; elongated, flowy shirts spilled out from slim suits. A group of dusty mauve jackets and pants were layered over wallpaper-printed shirts. Shown in an old, dark church near Milan’s famous Duomo, a distinct sculptural quality was evident in the the form of speckled marble print pants and innovative proportions. For most of the show, colors remained light and dusty with neutrals like chalk, putty and sand bringing the point home.
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