Armani Privé – Haute Couture S/S 2013

Paris: At Armani Privé the designer transported viewers on a non-specific exotic journey with a collection inspired by the romanticism of the Eastern cultures, the mystery of the desert and ornate Arabic architecture and ironwork. The theme was subtly apparent in a collection of mostly tailored looks in saturated spice and jewel tones, and in rich lustrous fabrics like Mikado satin. The show began with full-skirted dresses worn under vests and over narrow trousers — cropped and with a slight flare — and these trousers appeared for almost every look. The collection also included some of Armani signatures like fitted gazar jackets and beaded gilets, and the season’s Art Deco-influence showed up in the form of chevron patterns and a parade of sinuous pencil skirts. The accessories throughout were scrolls or scepters (secured at belts and necklaces) and fez-inspired headpieces that also suggested 20s-era cloches. There were of course some stunning gowns and voluminous skirts with deep side pockets that added an effortless mood, but the loveliest pieces carried the Armani signature simplicity — like the procession of strapless, Oscar-worthy gowns that closed the show. —Celia Ingesson

Silhouette: Streamlined / Columns / Narrow / Volume

Color: Saffron / Purple / Ruby red / White / Black

Key Items: Cropped flare-leg pants / Fitted jackets / Waistcoats / Strapless cocktail dresses / Columnar gowns / Zouave pants

Materials:  Silk crepe / Silk chiffon / Organza / Silk jacquards / Mikado satin

Print + Pattern: Tribal / Ornate scrollwork / Geometric / Blown-up windowpane check / Kilim patterns / Chevron motifs

Details + Trim: Halter necklines / “Scepter” scrolls / Beaded collars / Narrow pleats / Silk cord 

Accessories + Footwear: Semi-precious stones and beads in ethnic-y necklaces and statement earrings / Beaded clutches with tribal patterns and details / Fez-cloche hats / Open-toe shoes with decorative piping


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