May 10, 2017 | By Carlene Thomas Bailey
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OPULENT FAIRY TALE
Milan: Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi took Alice in Wonderland and made her rich for F/W 13, swapping the fictional heroine’s modest blue pinafore for burnished gold brocade, winking crystal embellishments and metallic tweed. Like a privileged teenager, the designer’s muse took her appearance seriously, and youthful heart repeats, cap sleeves and topknot hairdos stood in contrast to the adult silhouette of curvy dresses and midi circle skirts. Peplums, by now an essential detail for every age, split the difference, while skinny off-the-shoulder dresses looked surprisingly seductive. The collection’s heavy luxury reinvented this beloved fairytale, a tactic most successful for pieces such as tartan minidresses covered in ombré sequins which served up magnificence and mischief in equal measure. —Nina Stotler
Silhouette: A-line / Nipped waist / Fitted / Circle / Tapered / Curvy / Strong shouldered
Color: Navy / Black / Burnished gold / Cobalt / Olive / Dove grey / Russet / Forest green / Metallic rose / White / Cherry
Key Items: Curvy dresses / Peplum tops / Tweed jackets / Formal military overcoats / Full circle skirts / Sweet fitted cap sleeve tops / Dressy pencil skirts / Peplum jackets / Sequin minidresses
Materials: Bouclé / Tweed / Satin / Mink / Wool / Brocade / Velvet
Print + Pattern: Hearts / Playing cards / Grids / Stripes / Tweed checks / Tartan
Details + Trim: Jet beading / Square sequins / Peplums / Contrast edging / Cap sleeves / Embroidery / Pockets / Contrast lining / Crystals / Pouf shoulders / Velvet collars
Accessories + Footwear: Velvet Mary Janes with tassel ties / Opaque hosiery / Skinny leather belts / High heeled platform laceups / Thigh high boots / Laced pumps
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