Milan: Looking to a trio of Italian inspirations — Renaissance paintings, the “sacred jewelry” of the church, and 1970s alta moda — Roberto Rimondi and Tommaso Aquilano presented a decadent collection both utterly modern and undeniably retro in feel. Silhouttes alternated between masculine double-breasted suits and structured hourglass shapes, both precisely cut in micro-jacquards and, more futuristic, neoprene-backed tapestry. Details also juxtaposed the future with the past, contrast leather sleeves and suggestive cutouts were an edgy contrast to silk high-neck collars and jeweled crucifix embroideries. A deep jewel tone palette lent even more richness to the lustrous fabrics, and mixed material piecing made for a luxurious patchworked effect. Key elements of the season were present as well — astrakhan uniquely worked for lush sweaters and knee-boots, while the must-have cape was cut in black leather for a dramatic, gothic look.  — Anna Jane Davis

Silhouette: Femme + hourglass / Masculine + tailored

Color: Black / Berry Wine / Rust / Blood Red / Royal Blue / Prussian Blue / Forest Green / Moss Green / Teal / Gold

Key Items: Astrakhan sweater / Double-breasted suit / Hourglass dress

Materials: Silk / Velvet / Neoprene-backed tapestry / Jacquard / Faille / Ottoman / Leather / Astrakhan

Print + Pattern: Micro jacquards / Filigree patterns / Crucifixes

Details + Trim: Leather sleeves + piecing / Embroidery / Appliqué / Jewels / Beads / Feathers / Contrast high-neck collars

Accessories + Footwear: Velvet bow-embellished pumps + booties / Astrakhan knee-boots


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