May 23, 2019 | By Alice Gividen
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SPINNING A BIRD’S NEST
Milan: Since they were both formerly coat designers, it is no surprise that Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi’s recent Aquilano.Rimondi show was full of beautifully tailored outerwear and suitings. Masculine double-breasted statement suits in camel and navy woolens maintained a presence throughout the show, balancing the more outgoing looks and reminding the viewers of the designers’ credentials. While the duo stuck to silhouettes that they know well, they also presented some of the most innovative textile treatments and embellishments seen this season. The show read like an experiment in mixed media, with the first few models wearing simple tweeds which gradually morphed into dimensional creations that brought to mind Bonnie Cashin’s famous musing about getting “a tweed by spinning together a bird’s nest and a spider’s web”. Clusters of fox fur and ostrich plumes were attached sporadically, emulating the coarse weave’s unraveling strands, and short, petal-shaped feathers were sewn into a peplum for a pencil skirt. Surface textures required a second look to really understand what the garments were made from. If the designers did go a bit overboard with a few overly embellished pieces, the overall collection was more inspiring than it was overdone.
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