May 23, 2019 | By Alice Gividen
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Milan: Known for his painterly prints and crafty piecing, Antonio Marras stuck to his winning formula for fall, presenting a range of compelling motifs and an intriguing mix of textures. He started the show with florals, a motif he has used frequently in past collections, but this time Marras mixed them with images of wooden trim. It gave the effect of viewing the flowers from inside a hothouse or from a windowsill. Disparate materials, such as silk twill, nubbly tweed, and plaid flannel came together for elegant peplum dresses, slim skirts, and round-shouldered jackets. But Marras set aside the piecing and prints for a handful of 60s-inspired skirt suits and A-line coats that looked particularly fresh. Oversized knits featuring intarsia florals or medallions were another highlight. Marras’s crafty aesthetic tends to give his clothing an approachable, humble feel, and this season’s offering captured that sentiment, but shining metallic gold leathers and rich brocades added an element of opulence. –Joanna Manganaro
Silhouette: A-line / Long + languid / Oversized / Rounded / Fit-and-flare
Color: Sky blue / Rosy red / Mahogany / Charcoal / Black / Taupe / Gold / Pale yellow / Lemon / Periwinkle / Blush / Olive / White / Dark brown / Saturated pink / Regal red / Leaf green
Key Items: Oversized sweaters / 60s-inspired cropped sleeve coats / Printed A-line skirts / Pieced pencil skirts
Materials: Printed silks / Nubbly tweed / Flannel / Chunky yarns / Silk twill / Mohair yarns / Menswear suitings / Shaggy fur / Exotic fur / Brocade / Metallic gold leather
Print + Pattern: Painterly florals / Wooden windowsills / Menswear plaids / Texture patterns / Medallions / Baroque florals
Details + Trim: Piecing / Fabric appliqués / Peplums / Rounded shoulders / Beading / Contrast sleeves / Double-breasted closures
Accessories + Footwear: Large top-handle bags / Color blocked knee socks / Platform tasseled loafers / Platform Mary Janes / Platform sneakers
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