3 hours ago | By Nigel Taylor
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Milan: In a nostalgic collection that he dedicated to his elegant mother, Nannina, Antonio Marras presented his signature romantic looks, but ones that referenced periods in his mother’s life. A dark color palette felt appropriate for fall while reflecting the somber clothes of his mother’s orphan childhood and the chic little black dresses he remembered her wearing when he was a boy. Many dresses and skirts featured attached overskirts or apron-inspired details, and accordion pleats added feminine interest to skirts and dresses without feeling fussy. The way Nannina would remake men’s jackets inspired the pattern-piece shapes that decorated roomy coats. While striped crocheted skirt suits felt mildly nautical, Breton tops and sailor bottoms interpreted the look more literally, perhaps a nod to Marras’ homeland of Sardinia, where he is still based. Delicate, pieced black slip dresses closed the show, accessorized with starched white collars.
Color: Black / Navy / Scarlet / Dark blue-gray / Dark moss / Pale peach / Golden olive / Mint / Chestnut
Key Items: Accordion skirt / Simple pullover sweater / Silk sheath / Sweater skirt set / Draped shell / Tiered dress and skirt / Pieced tweed jackets and coats / Deco slip / Boxy tuxedo / Silk maxi dress
Materials: Silk satins and chiffons / Crocheted knits / Velvet / Herringbone and houndstooth tweeds / Fur / Wool suitings / Leather / Brocade / Sateen
Prints + Patterns: Rose collage prints / Horizontal stripes / Windowpane motifs / Pinstripes / Nautical borders / Painterly florals / Houndstooth and herringbone patterns
Details + Trim: Square necklines / Accordion pleats / Ruching / Apron-style overlays and peplums / Boat necks / Sheer sleeves / Feather fringe / Beaded lace appliqués / Pieced constructions / Ruffle seam trims / Raglan cuts / Self belts / Fur trims / Sequin embellishments / Scalloped edges
Accessories + Footwear: 50s-inspired satchels / Corsage belts / Platform mary-janes and peep-toed pumps / Detached collars / Dickies
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