Oct 16, 2018 | By Nigel Taylor
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WHERE THE BOYS ARE
Milan: Fall found Antonio Marras’s fanciful heroine on the run with her usual trove of grandma’s hand-me-downs, plus a spiffy new menswear wardrobe on her back, perhaps stolen from a spurned lover. The inspiration was the Sardinian “bandit queen” Paska Devaddis who was as notorious for wearing men’s clothes in the early 1900s as she was for her dirty deeds. What resulted was a more toughened-up approach to the designer’s brand of garden party romanticism. The herringbone tweeds, cabin plaids, silk foulards and pinstriped suitings provided an effective counterpoint to ultra-feminine Chantilly lace, burnout velvets, shimmering matelassés, flower-printed shantung and rich furs. The opposing fabrics were all mixed into striking collages for loose waistcoats and short-sleeved coats that retained the designer’s signature easy shape. Oversized workman pantaloons provided a reprieve from filmy lace-overlaid skirts, and when paired with rugged duck boots and spats, completed Marras’s unique and charming vision of outdoorsy bohemian glam.
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