Antonio Berardi


Back home after showing for a few years in Paris, Antonio Berardi introduced a French-influenced sense of luxury and drama to the sensuality he attributes to his Sicilian heritage.  Body-con minidresses were rigorously structured from the shoulders to the exaggerated hips.  Precision-paneled New Look-inspired corsets cinched the midsection, and at times, recalled the early work of Proenza Schouler.  Black-on-black beads, crystals and gems encrusted the corsetry panels to create a striking monochrome mosaic.  Also like Proenza Schouler, especially this season, Berardi was at his best in the more relaxed moments.  Billowing kimono sleeve robes and pleated miniskirts looked refreshing after a parade of angular sculpted styles, and the corset-paneling technique looked more accessible when interpreted in a sportier fashion with jersey and mesh.
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