May 10, 2017 | By Carlene Thomas Bailey
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London: Antonio Berardi cited a specific inspiration for his architectural F/W 13 collection, channeling the failed 60s utopia of Oscar Niemeyer’s Brasilia into trim wool separates and tweed dresses. In addition to sweeping folds and curving cutouts, capes were a key feature throughout the presentation, particularly dramatic menswear overcoats, triangular draped anoraks and rectangular evening looks with floor-length satin trains. Flipping between arched lines and stiff rectangles, Berardi generated a tension between the hourglass silhouettes he is known for and a new cubist modernity, an opposition which worked best for pieces like oval sleeved tunics embossed with boxy crocodile patterns, or evening dresses mapped with bugle beads and crystals. Unusual and visionary, this was city planning, the fashion edition. —Nina Stotler
Silhouette: Slim / Angular drape / A-line / Fitted / Hourglass / Rectangular
Color: Black / Stippled grey / Deep sage green / Navy / White / Violet / Cobalt / Ruby / Nude
Key Items: Dramatic angular capes / Simple sheath dresses, some with sheer slices / Box pleat miniskirts / Strong shoulder elongated blazers / Slim trousers / Sleeveless coats / Evening gowns with trains
Materials: Tweed / Sheer chiffon / Shaved fur / Felted wool / Jacquard / Satin / Silk
Print + Pattern: Triangle repeats / Tiny graphic florals / Oversized dots / Zig-zags / Crocodile / Squares
Details + Trim: Cape backs / Seaming / Zippers / Folds / Pleating / Sheer slices / Oval sleeves / Geometric embroidery / Crocodile embossing / Body mapping / Rectangular crystals / Bugle beads / Trains
Accessories + Footwear: Pointed ankle boots with triangle repeats / Sandals and pumps with skinny ankle straps
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