May 23, 2019 | By Alice Gividen
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BREAKING THE MOLD
London: The inspiration for Antonio Berardi’s futuristic F/W 12 collection was surprisingly traditional — he looked to Rococo sculptor Giacomo Serpotta. The garments emulated the molded curves synonymous with Rococo works, but felt undeniably modern in neoprene-like materials and with curvaceous color-blocked insets. Silhouettes emphasized the waist — fit-and-flare minis and peplum jackets — and even sharp, straight forms received the treatment, like coats with contrast hourglass-shaped panels set into the back. Dimensional folds, inverted pleats and cutouts added further sculptural interest, and the bold palette — shell pink, vermillion, turquoise — added liveliness to the edgy looks. — Anna Jane Davis
Silhouette: Hourglass / A-line
Color: Black /White / Steel Grey / Vermillion / Shell Pink / Silver / Turquoise
Key Items: Fit-and-flare mini dress / Sculpted coat / Fluid pants / Peplum jacket
Materials: Neoprenelike fabric — silk and linen backed with bouclé / Satin / Crepe / Broderie Anglaise / Fur
Details + Trim: Paillettes + beading / Piecing / Color-blocking / Peplums / Inverted pleats / Curved seams
Accessories + Footwear: Suede, ankle wrap pumps
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