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Anna Sui & Les Ballets Russes

New York Fashion Week came to an end yesterday, and while there was a major Halston influence (fashion’s current Patron Saint) evident on the runways– more on that later– the ongoing ballet trend seduced an unlikely suitor in Anna Sui, whose Ballet Russes-inspired collection provided a fresh, graphic spin this classic, oft-cited style.

Eschewing the pale pinks and flowy chiffons of other recent ballet-esque collections (read: Chanel haute couture, Chloé S/S 11), Sui gravitated instead towards her signature 60s/70s-influenced prints incorporating stylized florals, checkerboard motifs, and abstract geos for an aesthetic that was classic Anna. Also inspired in part by British socialite sisters Alice, Jane, and Victoria Ormsby-Gore, who ostensibly purchased a lot of Ballets Russes costumes at a Sotheby’s auction in the late 60s and wore them day and night, Sui’s collection achieved a modern balance; visually extravagant yet grounded in wearable silhouettes for contemporary women.

Below, some costumes culled from throughout Les Ballets Russes’ history to analyze & illustrate Anna’s possible visual references.

 
Alice Ormsby-Gore, late 60s                                                                           Program, Les Ballets Russes, 1911

 
Anna Sui A/W 11 (& throughout); Costume sketch by Adrian Feint, 1910s

 
Costume for the Blue God [“Le Dieu Bleu”], Léon Bakst, 1912

 
Hat by José Maria Sert, 1919-20

 
Shorts by Léon Bakst, 1910

 
Costume sketch by Adrian Feint, circa 1910s-20s


Anna herself; Set sketch by André Dérain for La Boutique Fantastique, 1919-20 Images courtesy of Stylesight and The National Gallery of Australia, currently showing ‘Ballets Russes: The Art of Costume” through March 20, 2011.

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  • sgraubard

    love this! there was a fab Ballets Russes exhibit at lincoln center last summer that may have inspired Anna.

    http://www.artnet.com/magazineus/features/anderson-spivy/allets-russes8-11-09.asp

    nice to see that there is another one in australia.

    great story!

  • Hi there just wanted to give you a quick heads up. The text in your post seem to be running off the screen in Opera. I’m not sure if this is a formatting issue or something to do with internet browser compatibility but I thought I’d post to let you know. The design look great though! Hope you get the problem resolved soon. Kudos

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