Ann-Sofie Back Atelje

London: Following last season’s rebranding of her signature collection (with the addition of “Atelje”), Back presented a more voluminous but still sophisticated silhouette, surprisingly inspired by cars. Back explored consumption and thought about the way men look at cars in the same way they look at porn. Back’s 14 looks played on the ideas of speed, reflected light, and even the molded shapes normally associated with automobiles. Tailored pieces featured center bust darts and concealed fastenings for an aerodynamic look, sheath dresses imitated the rounded tire covers found on old Bentleys, and intricately pleated garments resembled compressed scrap yard cars. The jewelry, which at times appeared to be piercing the models bodies, was made of the same burl wood used to produce dashboards. A large molded black bag, the key accessory of the collection, was oddly reminiscent of Karl Lagerfeld’s 2009 airplane-inspired “Hard Case” for Chanel. The collection would have benefited from the lightness of the “insect-splatter” printed dresses and tops displayed in the showroom but were mysteriously edited out of this presentation.

Color: Aqua / Black / Mauve / Sand / Silver

Key Items: Carrot trousers / Molded jackets / Accordion pleated dresses

Materials: Wool rib jersey / Bonded silk duchesse / Washed silk jersey / Cashmere-wool suiting

Print + Pattern: “Insect splatter” print / Degradé color effects

Details + Trim: Intricate pleating / Concealed closures / Metal trim / Spaghetti straps with metal detail

Accessories + Footwear
: Burl wood jewelry / Black patent leather pumps / Silk clutches / Molded Bags

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