Ann-Sofie Back



London: Ann-Sofie Back is a decidedly intellectual designer, commenting on diverse social subjects via her apparel and accessories. Now that her primary duties include working with Cheap Monday, her namesake label sits somewhere between presentation and runway show, but maintains its witty high-mindedness. Squared-off shoulders reminiscent of Margiela were the focal point of her suits for S/S 11, with glazed transparencies layered beneath. Long-over-short, a proportion prevalent on NYC runways, also appeared in London with Back’s gauzy white half-skirt, which floated like a cutaway apron over slim black pants. Exposed references to sewing peeked out, such as circular stitched cutouts or giant lucite sewing needles piercing trousers and dresses. Silver jewelry completed the emphasis on shape, via metal teardrops hung as earrings or down bare backs as reverse necklaces. Minimalist with a message, Ann-Sofie Back’s refined black and white collection communicated a sharp view on the craft of construction.

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