Oct 16, 2018 | By Nigel Taylor
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London: After the riot of color and print in New York, Ann-Sofie Back’s austere presentation was akin to sorbet following a heavy meal. The designer employed the London runway to simultaneously showcase her signature Atelje, and diffusion Back lines. Both collections were rooted in the Scandinavian concept of jantelagen, the social aspiration towards uniformality. An almost complete absence of surface decoration brought fabric and color choices to the forefront. The use of black, white, and sand was punctuated by bubble-gum pink, and fabrics included coarse linen, sheer organza, and treated cotton. Dungaree and apron silhouettes set the tone, while bold heat-treated creases oftentimes interrupted the garments’ stark lines. Back’s architectural play with organza answered the call for intelligent eveningwear, while a stiffly creased pinstripe shirt and sheer bi-level skirt would work for women of all ages and sizes. The fine knits and boxy tailored jackets are sure to become a wardrobe staple for any self-respecting minimalist. Just be sure to tell the dry cleaner to steam around the creases. – Shine Anthony-Dharan
Silhouette: Slouchy / Masculine
Color: Mist / White / Black / Bubblegum pink / Navy / Sand
Key Items: Oversized blazers / Halter tops / Relaxed pants
Materials: Knits / Cotton / Silk organza / Linen
Prints + Patterns: Pinstripes
Details + Trim: Heat treated creases / Self-belts / Aprons / Drawstrings
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