Ann Demeulemeester

Demeulemeester’s hallmark Gothic sensibilities are unlikely to go anywhere soon, but observers often stress her dark fixation at the cost of acknowledging the designer’s sly sense of humor and celebratory sense of fun. All three were on display in Paris, as the designer paraded a number of pajama party looks down the runway, many that were equal parts gentleman vampire’s smoking lounge and rumpled schoolboy crying out from a horrible nightmare. Trim, cropped blazers in softer constructions came down the runway over baggy pajama pants in pirate stripes, arabesque florals, and a harvest orange French toile, all three of which are turning out to be stalwarts of many S/S 13 menswear collections. Orange velvet, flowing black overcoats, and a smattering of iridescent purple items added flavor and verve to this already rich, dramatic collection.  —Andrew Luecke

Silhouette: Trim top, sleepy bottom

Color: Black / Harvest orange / Electric violet / Gunmetal / Sky / Silver / Carmel cream / Ginger

Key Items: Rumpled schoolboy blazers or suit coats / Pajama pants / Robe shirts / Double-breasted raincoats / Silk car coats / Suits

Materials: Sharkskin suiting / Velvet / Iridescents / Silk

Print + Pattern: Vertical stripes / Harvest orange toile / Arabesque florals

Details + Trim: Robe ties / Asymmetrical plackets / Zippers

Accessories + Footwear: Chelsea boots / Chokers


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