Ann Demeulemeester


Paris: After the dreamy floor-sweeping layers of last season, Ann Demeulemeester returned to her noir roots…well, almost. While the designer’s signature haphazard-seeming, wrapped, cinched and piled-on silhouettes returned for Fall in familiar all-black permutations, the presence of a deepened cobalt and inky midnight blue drew to mind a poetic night sky, especially in combination with the wild crow feather headdresses — perhaps an ode to Poe’s raven? Tough leather pants were layered under every look, from simple sleeveless columns tunics to complicated pieced jackets. The idea of protection, a key F/W 12 theme so far, took the form of draped chin-length collars and impenetrable leather-on-leather ensembles, and volume made a rare appearance constructutions featuring layers of gathers. Slouchy over-the-knee boots added to the archaic swashbuckling feel.  —Anna Jane Davis

Silhouette: Layers / Columns / Cinched Volume

Color:  Black / Deepened Cobalt / Midnight Blue

Key Items:  Sleeveless tunic or column dress / Gathered wrap skirt / Leather pants / Draped jacket / Long, stand collar coat

Materials: Silk crepe / Silk velvet / Lustrous faille + twill / Leather — shiny or washed / Supple suede

Details + Trim: Contoured panels / Asymmetrical zip closures / Draped stand collars

Accessories + Footwear: Slouchy over-the-knee boots / Opera-length leather gloves / Feather headdresses


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