Ann Demeulemeester


Paris: Ann Demeulemeester took a more graphic direction this season with a collection of lean silhouettes broken up by elongated layers, unexpected bursts of color and high-contrast dip-dye. Pants verged on leggings, serving as a base for multiple dress-like top layers such as calf-length sweaters, tunic-style tees and knee-length nightshirt looks. Among the new proportions were signature items — tailored vests, baggy below-the-knee shorts, and cutaway coats — refreshed with ombré effects and subtle texture prints. Materials ranged in texture, from gauzy jerseys to luminous duchesse satin, and a duo of bright tones — robin’s egg blue and coral — enlivened the greyscale palette.  —Anna Jane Davis

Silhouette: Elongated

Color: Black / White / Dove grey / Coral / Inky blue / Bright blue

Key Items: Skintight pants / Dress-length sweater / Mid-calf “nightshirt” / Cutaway jacket / Cavalry officer’s coat

Materials: Cotton shirting / Wool suiting / Gauzy fabrics — knit + woven / Fuzzy yarns / Duchesse satin / Leather

Print + Pattern: Ombré dip dye / Greyscale texture prints

Details + Trim: Stand collars / Shirttail hems / Haphazardly placed buttons

Accessories + Footwear: Clunky knee-high boots

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