May 23, 2019 | By Alice Gividen
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Paris: Ann Demeulemeester is a designer with a very clear and recognizable aesthetic, committed to a restricted palette, modern silhouettes, creatively edgy accessories and a darkly rock-and-roll influence. Season to season, she debuts new ways to interpret her favorite themes, experimenting with layering and proportion as well as materials and contrasts. For S/S 11 Demeulemeester added more structure than she has in recent years, while also continuing her use of large, placed prints – this time abstract. Tailored structure took the form of protective leather jackets and vests, their dense stitching and shell-like cuts almost turning them into high fashion flak jackets. This tough foundation was directly at odds with the elongated, fluttering silk skirts and dresses whose narrow, asymmetrical trains provided a high-cut flash of leg. Soft against hard and white against black are classic ideas for the Belgian mega-talent, but the collection for S/S 11 explored a freshly slick yet poetic femininity, both protected and let loose.
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